[MR2] Door Power Window Switch
gerald_helman at comcast.net
Thu Jan 14 16:38:40 EST 2010
Bill; Yes I was able to get the master switch working 100% by loading it up
w/electrical spray and then after a soak, blowing it dry w/compressed air.
The reason I wanted to get inside the master switch was that I found an
awful lot of crud in the pass. door switch when I opened it up and wanted to
get it really clean. I would like one of your spare igniters for a backup.
Mine failed at 130K, but w/8-9 yrs of track driving, if that is a factor.
Aaron mentioned that many of them failed due to a "transient ground", so I
rigged up a secondary ground wire to the igniter body when I installed it.
BTW, I still have my old dead one w/OEM uncut wire harness if you'd like
it..say as a core? J And yes I do drive it a good distance fairly regularly.
The pass. window prob. came last summer on a 10 day trip to the Napa and
Laguna Seca areas for the Rolex Historics. We just popped the door panel off
and jumped the switch to get the window up. My wife was unhappy with no
window action for about 1200 miles however. J It won't be difficult to
carry an extra igniter on long trips. That trip was w/4 other Twos, all
MK2s. Around the Monterey area MR2s were a rarity, as the roads were
littered w/Ferraris, Lambos, and other exotics. No rush on the igniter Bill,
just holler when you want some $ and I'll send you that and an address.
Speakers were mentioned and Aaron mentioned subwoofers. I have just been
down that road and will be glad to share my efforts and solution to any who
Adios from Senor Dos
From: William Brandt [mailto:wbrandt1 at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 11:01 AM
To: Jerry Helman
Cc: IMOC MR2 List
Subject: Re: Door Power Window Switch
Hi Jerry - do you mean that you were able to flood the switch with cleaner
to get it to work? I too have the feeling that you can't really take these
apart and yet am sure just cleaning the contacts would allow the thing to
When I realized that I now have **four** of these used igniters I realized
that I have a problem ;-)
I have a used one in my car now; it has to have 25,000-30,000 miles on it.
All the ones I have have 130K-200K on them (and I didn't mark which was
which so it is the luck of the draw) , and since (remembering what Aaron
said) they last about 200K I now wonder if it wouldn't have been smarter to
simply bite the bullet, pay the $450 for a new one and be done with it.
But to answer your question yes I will be glad to sell you one, and I can
take the coil off if you want. I think the igniter alone would fit in the
$4.90 flat rate priority mail box and since P & P charged me $25 for each of
these $30 should do it. But if you want it let me make sure it would fit in
the $4.90 box first before committing to the price. I will test the one in
my car before sending it to you.
I **really** need a bad one to use the distributor-to-igniter plug to
replace the one the nimrod cut on my latest one. Otherwise I'll have to wait
for mine to go.
BTW my old Mercedes - on its 2nd O2 sensor (about 100K on it) but original
cat, passed our smog with flying colors last Nov. with 335,000 miles. I
think the secret is driving the car enough each day to really heat things up
(at last 15 miles). And if you have engine problems, like an oil issue - fix
it promptly. Yesterday with Mr. 2 and engine idling in the garage while I
am playing with the window, I saw a little puddle of water sitting in the
exhaust pipes - you gotta drive them enough to evaporate the water each time
or it sits in the cat and muffler. Sounds like you drive your car on good
extended drives, too.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Helman <mailto:gerald_helman at comcast.net>
To: wbrandt1 at sbcglobal.net
Cc: IMOC MR2 List <mailto:mr2 at mr2.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: Door Power Window Switch
Bill; I had power window probs last summer w/my 85. The pass window would
only go down. Would not come up with either door switch. I 1st went after
the pass door, naturally. I removed the switch and was able to get it apart
w/out ruining it. According to a pal who works for Toyota Canada, they are
NOT made to come apart. I found the switch was very well made w/heavy duty
copper contacts, and this one just needed cleaning out. 25 yrs of crud build
up. It worked well after cleaning. I had a master drivers door switch in my
used parts stash, so I installed it in the driver's door after flooding it
with cleaner and blowing it out w/compressed air. All working well now. I
tried to take apart the old master switch but only got far enough to
dislodge the copper rocker contacts. No problem if I could get the entire
switch apart, but the window lock button won't come off..I suspect it will
have to be cut to get it off and access the innards. So it is now resting in
my garage on the later shelf. I also had an igniter failure last season and
installed the spare I had. I would feel safer if I had another spare. Would
you be interested in selling/swapping one of your several spares? BTW, the
igniter is removable from the coil, as I'm sure you know.
Jerry Helman/Senor Dos/1985 Mk1 w/ OEM Cat & O2 Sensor After 25 yrs.
(Had my final smog test last month.no more needed.at least here in Seattle)
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