dkchal at datasync.com
Sat Apr 3 12:05:14 EDT 2010
My bad all. I haven't worked on a vehicle as new as a 99 for a while and I was thinking the drums were like the old Chrysler products. Axle keyed. The 99 is a full floating drum so Jason after sliding the drum off, you will have to go to an auto parts store and get the new lugs and nuts and also a lug removal tool. Used to cost $5. Must be $10 by now. Do -*NOT*_ use a hammer to beat the old studs out of the flange. Use the removal tool. Then use the nut and a stack of assorted washer to pull the new stud up snug against the axle flange.
----- Original Message -----
From: Arvid Jedlicka
To: mr2-interest at mr2.com
Cc: Donald K Chalfant
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [MR2] Studs
Donald ... and I do respect his opinion ... suggests ...
"Take the drum off, put it on the driveway, open side down. Take a center punch and a big hammer. Drive out the old studs. Insert the new studs into the drum splines, put a big socket on the cement for the stud to stick down into, hold the drum level with one hand and use the big hammer to whack the new studs home."
I will simply add that on every vehicle I have ever had with drum brakes the wheel studs have been attached to the axel flange in the rear and to the hub in the front, and never to the drum itself. I will also suggest that this is no different than my experience with disk brakes. But then my experience is limited to vehicles that are in the "light weight" category and trucks that are greater than 1 ton may be completely different.
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