[MR2] Frozen brake bleeders

[Randell Jesup]

JDeRyke at aol.com writes:
>> Any good tricks?  If one does break, can they be extracted
>> safely/reliably? Or should I just pick up remanufactured calipers?  Or
>> is there a usable trick to bleed them without bleeders.
>> 
>1)- Use a 6-point socket on a 1/4 or 3/8" drive ratchet on the bleeder, not 
>a open end wrench. 
>2)- try some penetrating oil around the base before untightening. 
>3)- if it does break, the drilled hole thru the bleeder makes an excellent 
>pilot hole for an easy-out. 

I'll try that.  I'm pretty sure I have some 6-points.

>4)- if you screw up the drilling and slop over into the casting, Sppeedway 
>Motors in Nebraska <www.speedwaymotors.com> sells a repair kit that requires 
>overdrilling and threading the buggered-up hole for a pipe thread. The kit 
>includes a new bleeder needle.

At that point, I'd probably just get rebuilt calipers @ ~$75-90 after core.

>5)- this whole scene only happens when people don't change brake fluid 
>yearly, so water accumulates, causing massive rust and corrosion in the whole 
>system. You'll be very lucky if the bleeder screw is the only part that needs 
>changing.... Good luck- J Deryke

Mea culpa.  Also, it tends to sit for a week or sometimes two or 3 at a time in
the winter (outside), and then get driven one day - doesn't help in terms
of heating things up to drive out water wapor.

-- 
Randell Jesup, Worldgate (developers of the Ojo videophone), ex-Amiga OS team
rjesup at wgate.com
"The fetters imposed on liberty at home have ever been forged out of the weapons
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		- James Madison, 4th US president (1751-1836)