[MR2] Frozen brake bleeders

[Kurt Krueger]

> However, one gotcha - the front bleeders were frozen enough that the
> mechanic didn't want to chance breaking them.  This left the brakes very
> soft, though I can get into the ABS without hitting the floor.  I'd
> replaced all 4 calipers with rebuilt units maybe 3-4 years ago.  (I also
> worry, not having checked the details of the master cylinder, that the
> front/rear balance is badly off.)
> 
> Any good tricks?  If one does break, can they be extracted safely/reliably?
> Or should I just pick up remanufactured calipers?  Or is there a usable
> trick to bleed them without bleeders... 

Depending on where the inlet hose connects, in theory you could bleed
from there.  But it only works if that's the highest spot.  Some
of the old drum brake cylinders would feed from the top and that
would make it possible.

However to even try it this way you'd have to remove the caliper
since you would have to purge the cylinder by pushing the pistons
in.  Thankfully I've never had to try this.  And keeping air
out of the brake line won't be easy.

I've had bleeders seize up, but never had one break.  The biggest
problem has been not rounding the corners.  A 6-pt socket is advised.
Brake fluid also works as a penetrating oil.  Soak the bleeder
threads with brake fluid overnight and see if that helps.
Real penetrating oil can be used, but it's not compatible with
the seals (or the fluid itself, I'm sure).  I've used it before
but then it's always been as preliminary for a rebuild.  I have
no idea what getting a few drops in the system will do.

Bleeders are just a fancy bolt. broken ones can be fixed and standard
procedure for broken bolts apply:

1. Drill out
2. Use EZ-out
3. Break EZ-out
4. Cuss
5. Obtain new part

Sometimes things go well and you get to stop at step 2.  Machinist that
I know do it all with a drill.  Use the right size bit and align things
just right.  Need drill press and a vice.

Then you get to rebuild the caliper to get all the metal chips out.