[MR2] MR2 Digest, Vol 25, Issue 1
jmmorgan at comcast.net
jmmorgan at comcast.net
Fri May 1 12:30:37 EDT 2009
Randell:
If Conicelli is local, you must be in the Philly area. You may want to give RTTuning a call (215-855-5565) in Lansdale to see if they can help you. Occasionally, they worked on my cars.
John
----- Original Message -----
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To: mr2 at mr2.com
Sent: Friday, May 1, 2009 12:00:02 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: MR2 Digest, Vol 25, Issue 1
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Today's Topics:
1. Rusted struts/plates/etc - repair or not? (Randell Jesup)
2. Re: Rusted struts/plates/etc - repair or not? (Steve Bagdon)
3. Re: Rusted struts/plates/etc - repair or not? (Dave)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:05:39 -0400
From: Randell Jesup <rjesup at wgate.com>
Subject: [MR2] Rusted struts/plates/etc - repair or not?
To: "mr2\@mr2.com" <mr2 at mr2.com>
Message-ID: <ybubpqd6ee4.fsf at jesup.eng.wgate.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
After posting (a few times), lurking (occasionally) and ignoring (mostly)
this making list for years, I have a real dilemma:
I have an SW20 '91 Turbo MR2, ABS, white, ~125K miles.
Background:
Paint is so-so -- VERY dirty right now; some chipping/peeling on rear
bumper and front, I think the right-side had damage since the paint on
the door hasn't aged the same as the rest of the car. Bought in '99 at
~85-90K miles. Driven a few times a week in the spring/summer/fall,
every week or two in the winter. Interior isn't bad; a little worn.
Replaced emergency brake cable in 2000ish. Shift boot replaced.
Passenger window replaced (break-in). Stock radio has startup-squeal,
backlight on display recently died. Antenna tends to stick going down,
but with a tap will retract.
All 4 brakes calipers and discs were replaced a few years ago (bought
parts and had a local shop do it). Newish tires. Squirrel ate through
the wiring for the cruise control. Alternator replaced back in 2000 or
2001. Sits outdoors, and I live on a 1/4-mile long gravel trail (with
paved driveway), which is often bumpy/potholed. Fast; engine is
strong; full boost; some oil getting past seals in turbo I suspect.
Distributor needs rebuild (oil under cap); I think I have a kit already
sitting in the basement (for years). Some electrical connection in the
door is iffy, and the locks tend to unlock themselves especially on
bumpy roads. Clutch seems good (I think it got replaced not long
before I bought it.) Gets 1500-2000 miles per quart of oil at a guess.
Dealer just failed it for inspection due to the struts being dead, and the
mounts, perches, and nuts all being rusty. He said the front springs were
"about to come through", and didn't want to touch any of the suspension
(there was a rattle from the rear strut I wanted him to look at) - said he
was sure if he tried to touch it things would start breaking. He says not
worth fixing unless it's sentimental; new struts, mounts, bushings, bolts,
boots are needed. Maybe new springs. His estimate was roughly $2800 (1/2
of that parts).
Pricing at Conicelli (which is local == plus tax), I get:
Front struts: 2 at 102.57 or two's r' us GR-2's @137.50 (pair)
mounts: 2 at 72.31 (or go with units from two's r' us 2 at 62.00)
insulators: 2@$8.xx
Rear struts: 2 at 113.67 or two's r' us GR-2's @137.50 (pair)
mounts: 2 at 104.83
insulators: ?? (2@$8.xx?)
Boots: 4 at 17
Bushings: 4 at 6.58
Springs: circa $60 each (stock)
I'm sure some other parts would be needed, nuts, etc. I'm guessing
from Conicelli it would be $800-1000 in parts, maybe a bit more.
Obviously, that's just parts. Add to the fun that while I have the ability
and most of the tools (with some digging), I'm both out of practice, VERY
busy at work, and have a 10-month-old (i.e. no free time - when we get
home, we're spending time with her), and on the weekends I'm also dealing
with house maintenance and gardening. And my wife is Very Not Pleased that
some parts of the house are a mess (mostly piles of my stuff, being a
packrat).
I either need to take it to a less-nosy person for inspection and put this
off until I have time, get rid of it, or bite the bullet and pay someone to
fix it. Or decide the dealer (who generally has been ok, with some
annoyances) is overblowing the issues.
Realistically, how much time would it take me to do this myself, with the
likely fun of rusty bolts, etc? My wife would be VERY skeptical of such an
idea, note, given my propensity to under-estimate times to do things I want
to do and she doesn't want me to spend the time on... :-)
How much is a '91T in this sort of condition worth?
Thanks for any advice.
--
Randell Jesup, Worldgate (developers of the Ojo videophone), ex-Amiga OS team
rjesup at wgate.com
"The fetters imposed on liberty at home have ever been forged out of the weapons
provided for defence against real, pretended, or imaginary dangers from abroad."
- James Madison, 4th US president (1751-1836)
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 19:36:29 -0400
From: "Steve Bagdon" <mr2 at bagdon.com>
Subject: Re: [MR2] Rusted struts/plates/etc - repair or not?
To: "'Randell Jesup'" <rjesup at wgate.com>, <mr2 at mr2.com>
Message-ID: <206FC706265F4CF58160DCF3508AB753 at D430>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Sounds like Blue Velvet. Sounds that the dealer is being dramatic about
the struts coming through.
How long to do the work? If you have the tools, probably a day. One
advantage is if you are tossing the old struts/mounts/bolts, you'd just
pull the gland nut, reassemble, and you're done. If you were actually
going to try to save the mount, that would add considerable time. Figure
a Sat's of work.
How much is it worth? Anybody's guess. $3k? Less in it's current
condition?
Steve B.
MR2-less
-----Original Message-----
From: mr2-bounces at mr2.com [mailto:mr2-bounces at mr2.com] On Behalf Of
Randell Jesup
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:06 PM
To: mr2 at mr2.com
Subject: [MR2] Rusted struts/plates/etc - repair or not?
After posting (a few times), lurking (occasionally) and ignoring
(mostly) this making list for years, I have a real dilemma:
I have an SW20 '91 Turbo MR2, ABS, white, ~125K miles.
Background:
Paint is so-so -- VERY dirty right now; some chipping/peeling on
rear
bumper and front, I think the right-side had damage since the paint
on
the door hasn't aged the same as the rest of the car. Bought in '99
at
~85-90K miles. Driven a few times a week in the spring/summer/fall,
every week or two in the winter. Interior isn't bad; a little worn.
Replaced emergency brake cable in 2000ish. Shift boot replaced.
Passenger window replaced (break-in). Stock radio has
startup-squeal,
backlight on display recently died. Antenna tends to stick going
down,
but with a tap will retract.
All 4 brakes calipers and discs were replaced a few years ago
(bought
parts and had a local shop do it). Newish tires. Squirrel ate
through
the wiring for the cruise control. Alternator replaced back in 2000
or
2001. Sits outdoors, and I live on a 1/4-mile long gravel trail
(with
paved driveway), which is often bumpy/potholed. Fast; engine is
strong; full boost; some oil getting past seals in turbo I suspect.
Distributor needs rebuild (oil under cap); I think I have a kit
already
sitting in the basement (for years). Some electrical connection in
the
door is iffy, and the locks tend to unlock themselves especially on
bumpy roads. Clutch seems good (I think it got replaced not long
before I bought it.) Gets 1500-2000 miles per quart of oil at a
guess.
Dealer just failed it for inspection due to the struts being dead, and
the mounts, perches, and nuts all being rusty. He said the front
springs were "about to come through", and didn't want to touch any of
the suspension (there was a rattle from the rear strut I wanted him to
look at) - said he was sure if he tried to touch it things would start
breaking. He says not worth fixing unless it's sentimental; new struts,
mounts, bushings, bolts, boots are needed. Maybe new springs. His
estimate was roughly $2800 (1/2 of that parts).
Pricing at Conicelli (which is local == plus tax), I get:
Front struts: 2 at 102.57 or two's r' us GR-2's @137.50 (pair)
mounts: 2 at 72.31 (or go with units from two's r' us 2 at 62.00)
insulators: 2@$8.xx
Rear struts: 2 at 113.67 or two's r' us GR-2's @137.50 (pair)
mounts: 2 at 104.83
insulators: ?? (2@$8.xx?)
Boots: 4 at 17
Bushings: 4 at 6.58
Springs: circa $60 each (stock)
I'm sure some other parts would be needed, nuts, etc. I'm guessing from
Conicelli it would be $800-1000 in parts, maybe a bit more.
Obviously, that's just parts. Add to the fun that while I have the
ability and most of the tools (with some digging), I'm both out of
practice, VERY busy at work, and have a 10-month-old (i.e. no free time
- when we get home, we're spending time with her), and on the weekends
I'm also dealing with house maintenance and gardening. And my wife is
Very Not Pleased that some parts of the house are a mess (mostly piles
of my stuff, being a packrat).
I either need to take it to a less-nosy person for inspection and put
this off until I have time, get rid of it, or bite the bullet and pay
someone to fix it. Or decide the dealer (who generally has been ok,
with some
annoyances) is overblowing the issues.
Realistically, how much time would it take me to do this myself, with
the likely fun of rusty bolts, etc? My wife would be VERY skeptical of
such an idea, note, given my propensity to under-estimate times to do
things I want to do and she doesn't want me to spend the time on... :-)
How much is a '91T in this sort of condition worth?
Thanks for any advice.
--
Randell Jesup, Worldgate (developers of the Ojo videophone), ex-Amiga OS
team rjesup at wgate.com "The fetters imposed on liberty at home have ever
been forged out of the weapons provided for defence against real,
pretended, or imaginary dangers from abroad."
- James Madison, 4th US president (1751-1836)
_______________________________________________
MR2 Mailing List
MR2 at mr2.com
http://mr2.com/mailman/listinfo/mr2_mr2.com
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 19:47:14 -0400
From: Dave <mr2srule at att.net>
Subject: Re: [MR2] Rusted struts/plates/etc - repair or not?
To: MR2 Email <mr2 at mr2.com>
Message-ID: <9F583E2C-7DEC-459B-BBD5-1CD188F0AA2B at att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
Boy do I understand the small child / wife / work / no time thing! I
always try to keep my car work to manageable bunches so I get done in
no more than half a day. That said, you can easily do the struts in
this time if you have the tools and space. However, to really go fast
and save even more money, I'm sure someone on this list has a set of
fully assembled spare strut/spring assemblies to send you that have
decent struts. With that you'd only need to remove the strut
assemblies and bolt in new ones which is only a handful of nuts/
bolts. If not here, check the forums.
Your biggest problem will probably be the sway bar links (which may be
bad if you have a clunk, BTW) which tend to get quite nasty to get off
with rust. For that, get a can of PB Blaster and spray every nut with
it an hour before you do the job - it will seriously help the rusty
bolt problem. You don't have to use a lot of it, I have one can that
has lasted many many years and cars.
Dave A.
On Apr 30, 2009, at 5:05 PM, Randell Jesup wrote:
> After posting (a few times), lurking (occasionally) and ignoring
> (mostly)
> this making list for years, I have a real dilemma:
>
> I have an SW20 '91 Turbo MR2, ABS, white, ~125K miles.
>
> Background:
> Paint is so-so -- VERY dirty right now; some chipping/peeling on
> rear
> bumper and front, I think the right-side had damage since the
> paint on
> the door hasn't aged the same as the rest of the car. Bought in
> '99 at
> ~85-90K miles. Driven a few times a week in the spring/summer/
> fall,
> every week or two in the winter. Interior isn't bad; a little
> worn.
> Replaced emergency brake cable in 2000ish. Shift boot replaced.
> Passenger window replaced (break-in). Stock radio has startup-
> squeal,
> backlight on display recently died. Antenna tends to stick going
> down,
> but with a tap will retract.
>
> All 4 brakes calipers and discs were replaced a few years ago
> (bought
> parts and had a local shop do it). Newish tires. Squirrel ate
> through
> the wiring for the cruise control. Alternator replaced back in
> 2000 or
> 2001. Sits outdoors, and I live on a 1/4-mile long gravel trail
> (with
> paved driveway), which is often bumpy/potholed. Fast; engine is
> strong; full boost; some oil getting past seals in turbo I suspect.
> Distributor needs rebuild (oil under cap); I think I have a kit
> already
> sitting in the basement (for years). Some electrical connection
> in the
> door is iffy, and the locks tend to unlock themselves especially on
> bumpy roads. Clutch seems good (I think it got replaced not long
> before I bought it.) Gets 1500-2000 miles per quart of oil at a
> guess.
>
> Dealer just failed it for inspection due to the struts being dead,
> and the
> mounts, perches, and nuts all being rusty. He said the front
> springs were
> "about to come through", and didn't want to touch any of the
> suspension
> (there was a rattle from the rear strut I wanted him to look at) -
> said he
> was sure if he tried to touch it things would start breaking. He
> says not
> worth fixing unless it's sentimental; new struts, mounts, bushings,
> bolts,
> boots are needed. Maybe new springs. His estimate was roughly
> $2800 (1/2
> of that parts).
>
>
> Pricing at Conicelli (which is local == plus tax), I get:
> Front struts: 2 at 102.57 or two's r' us GR-2's @137.50 (pair)
> mounts: 2 at 72.31 (or go with units from two's r' us 2 at 62.00)
> insulators: 2@$8.xx
> Rear struts: 2 at 113.67 or two's r' us GR-2's @137.50 (pair)
> mounts: 2 at 104.83
> insulators: ?? (2@$8.xx?)
>
> Boots: 4 at 17
> Bushings: 4 at 6.58
> Springs: circa $60 each (stock)
> I'm sure some other parts would be needed, nuts, etc. I'm guessing
> from Conicelli it would be $800-1000 in parts, maybe a bit more.
>
>
> Obviously, that's just parts. Add to the fun that while I have the
> ability
> and most of the tools (with some digging), I'm both out of practice,
> VERY
> busy at work, and have a 10-month-old (i.e. no free time - when we get
> home, we're spending time with her), and on the weekends I'm also
> dealing
> with house maintenance and gardening. And my wife is Very Not
> Pleased that
> some parts of the house are a mess (mostly piles of my stuff, being a
> packrat).
>
> I either need to take it to a less-nosy person for inspection and
> put this
> off until I have time, get rid of it, or bite the bullet and pay
> someone to
> fix it. Or decide the dealer (who generally has been ok, with some
> annoyances) is overblowing the issues.
>
> Realistically, how much time would it take me to do this myself,
> with the
> likely fun of rusty bolts, etc? My wife would be VERY skeptical of
> such an
> idea, note, given my propensity to under-estimate times to do things
> I want
> to do and she doesn't want me to spend the time on... :-)
>
> How much is a '91T in this sort of condition worth?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> --
> Randell Jesup, Worldgate (developers of the Ojo videophone), ex-
> Amiga OS team
> rjesup at wgate.com
> "The fetters imposed on liberty at home have ever been forged out of
> the weapons
> provided for defence against real, pretended, or imaginary dangers
> from abroad."
> - James Madison, 4th US president (1751-1836)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> MR2 Mailing List
> MR2 at mr2.com
> http://mr2.com/mailman/listinfo/mr2_mr2.com
------------------------------
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