[MR2] [mr2-nw] 20v update/questions

Tue Jul 29 20:58:51 EDT 2008

Sounds like he took an engine out through the top?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Helman" <gerald_helman at comcast.net>
To: "'Matt Mulder'" <rex8499 at hotmail.com>
Cc: "IMOC MR2 List" <mr2 at mr2.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MR2] [mr2-nw] 20v update/questions

> Matt; If the wire in the harness is of sufficient size, that is OK. For
> charging purposes a 10 or 12 ga. Is fine, but not for cranking the engine.
> The heaviest electrical draw on the entire electrical system is when the
> engine is cranked.  The tapered thread thing is used on almost all US pipe
> fittings. Look at a pipe thread tap.it will be stamped, for instance ¼ 
> NPT.
> That stands for National Pipe Tapered. J Axles remove easily. Bolts/nuts 
> at
> diff. end, and if room enough they can be tied up out of the way. Or 
> remove
> axle nut and tap them thru the wheel brg. Hit end with a big hammer while
> the nut is still on threads to protect them. Use a block of wood, etc. 
> Then
> entire axle will come out.
>
> Good wrenching, Jerry
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Matt Mulder [mailto:rex8499 at hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 1:57 PM
> To: MR2NW List
> Cc: Aaron Rusch
> Subject: RE: [mr2-nw] 20v update/questions
>
>
>
> "The cable from the starter solenoid to the positive post should be of
> battery cable size, not just the 10 or 12ga. Used in the wiring harness.
> Specially with the longer run from the frunk, a heavy cable is needed to 
> do
> the job. The longer the run, the heavier the cable needs to be to avoid
> voltage drop."
>
> So the alternator can charge the battery through the starter? And the
> battery can send power to the rest of the needed accessories through the
> starter?  It seems to me that having the large diameter cable (it's 
> probably
> like a 6 or 8 guage that was supplied with the kit) from the funk to the
> wiring harness would supply enough power to then connect to the starter
> through the harness.
>
> Very interesting on the O.Pr. unit. Tapered threads.  I've never heard of
> such a thing being used.  Is this a common application?
>
> The thing I hate about putting the engine in from the bottom up is that 
> the
> axles get in the way. Is there an easy way to take them off? I looked in 
> my
> haynes manual but it doesnt talk about it, and I'm hesitant to just start
> taking things apart to see if I can get them out of the way.  They took a
> beating when I took the engine out by bending too far, and now need some
> attention too.
>
> -Matt Mulder, EIT
>
>  _____
>
> From: gerald_helman at comcast.net
> To: rex8499 at hotmail.com
> CC: mr2-nw at mrtwo.net
> Subject: RE: [mr2-nw] 20v update/questions
> Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 13:43:11 -0700
>
> Matt; The O.Pr.unit is usually a tapered thread so when it is snug, you're
> good to go.  It doesn't have to be threaded all the way  in to the point 
> of
> no visible threads. I had to take a 12 or 13mm (Whatever the size is) open
> end  wrench and bend it to some weird angles to be able to tighten the
> sender when the engine was in the car.tight quarters. On the battery. The
> cable from the starter solenoid to the positive post should be of battery
> cable size, not just the 10 or 12ga. Used in the wiring harness. Specially
> with the longer run from the frunk, a heavy cable is needed to do the job.
> The longer the run, the heavier the cable needs to be to avoid voltage 
> drop.
> Put the engine back in the same way it came out.up from the bottom. I did
> the engine in Senor Dos up from the bottom w/intake and exhaust both on 
> it.
> PS: We Had a nice BC run with Steve & Tina and others last week and your
> name came up. J Good luck,  (Jerry Note: New E-Mail Address for me.)
>
>
>
> From: Matt Mulder [mailto:rex8499 at hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 12:53 PM
> To: MR2_Club
> Subject: [mr2-nw] 20v update/questions
>
>
>
> Worked for a while yesterday.
> I have about 3/4 of the coolant piping installed, but need to wait until
> engine is in to finish the rest.
> Installed the new (used) engine mounts that were in much better shape than
> mine, from Senor Dos.
> Finished removing the last of the air conditioning system piping.
> Installed a new oil pressure sender unit on the 20v. You may recall that I
> was going to use the 16v unit but it seemed to be broken as the cylinder 
> was
> turning freely from the threads.  Do I need to screw the unit in until all
> of the threads are inside the block? I have it sitting with probably 1/2 
> the
> threads in the block and it's getting really hard to tighten it in any
> further.  Seems to be secure that way.  Will oil leak past it if its not 
> all
> the way in?
> My battery relocation kit (plastic box included) arrived and I was reading
> the instructions.  It says to connect the positive length of cable to the
> starter selenoid and then the battery (at the other end).  I was thinking 
> I
> would just connect it to the original positive battery cable on the wiring
> harness.  Are there pros/cons from either? Will the battery charge and run
> everything when it is connected only to the starter? The kit came with 4
> screws that are supposed to be used to attach the brackets which hold the
> strap to the floor to hold down the box.  Should I just screw them into 
> the
> frunk floor or is there a better way of doing it?
>
> My spliced wiring harness should be on it's way to me right now.
> My wife will be heading down to Pullman next week, so I'll send her with 
> my
> truck to pick up the engine hoist and load balancer from down there. (me 
> and
> 3 friends bought one together and share it as needed).  Once I get the
> engine off the stand I can attach the flywheel, clutch, and tranny and it
> should be about ready to drop in.  When I took the engine out I went out 
> the
> bottom and lifted the car over it.  Should I try to put it back in the 
> same
> way to drop it in from above? I dont have the intake or exhaust header on
> yet to give myself more room to do so.
>
> -Matt Mulder, EIT
>
>  _____
>
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