![[Power Flow Image - Small]](../PICTURES/power_f.gif)
Click here for picture of PowerFlow after installtion
From: "Marc L. Summers" <marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com>
Subject: Detailed instructions for HKS Power Flow
To: uunet!validgh.com!mr2-interest@uunet.uu.net
Date: Sun, 07 May 1995 12:43:01 PDT
05/07/1995
Detailed Instructions on How To Install
The HKS Super Power Flow Filter System
On A 1993 Turbo MR2
(NOTE: I do not assume that these instructions would be
OK to use on any of the other model years but
it would probably be close for the 1991, 1992
1994 and 1995 models.)
===============================================================================
Tools Needed
===============================================================================
Drop light, preferably the clamp type.
5 or 6 large bath towels
14 inch 1/4 drive extension (I used 1/4 inch 3/8 drive is OK also)
6 inch extension 1/4 drive
1/4 drive ratchet
magnetic pickup wand 12 inches long or longer
#2 philips screw driver 6 inch long
1/4 universal joint (preferably a tight one, one that is not loose or limp)
10 mm socket 1/4 drive (possibly a 10 mm openend box end wrench)
12 mm socket 1/4 drive
5/16 inch socket 1/4 drive
small pair of needle nose pliers
pair of needle nose vise grip pliers
flashlight
mirror
16 inch long spring loaded claw grabber or wife with very small hands
2.5 pound sledge hammer (not a joke).
3 hours of time (depends on how mechanically inclined you are.)
a lot of patiences
Optional: Since I found it quite easy to reuse the old air tube gasket then
I did not purchase a new one. But for those that think they just
might need one then you order part number 17376-88380 air tube gasket
it is not normally stocked so you will have to order it at least
three days in advance. It costs $3 US. (from your local Toyota dealer)
===============================================================================
NOTE: This proceedure assumes that you already have the HKS kit, and have
found out that when you received it the instructions were in Japanese
and that you called up HKS and asked them to either FAX or mail the
English version of the instructions to you, or that you are Japanese
and prefer working from the original instructions. Although NOTE:
that the original instructions do not include all of the diagrams
that HKS provides when sending you the english instructions.
ALSO NOTE: please read all the way through these instructions at least
once before you start so that you have it clear in your mind
what needs to be done before you actually start doing it.
ALSO NOTE: the HKS instructions indicate that you should remove the negative
terminal from the battery. As I have been in the electronics
industry for 25 years, and know just a little about these things
I see no reason to disconnect the battery. The only danger I see
is one such that there may be a sufficient static electrical
charge built up around you depending on your specific environment.
I would make sure that I grounded myself so that there is no
static potential between you and the car before removing the
air box cable connector, and again when replacing it.
1. Lay down a good layer of large bath towels on the rear of the car, this
makes a good place to lay out your tools and parts. make sure you also
put towels over the fin and on the rear drivers side (US), of the car
as you will be leaning over on that side.
2. Lay out your tools and parts on the towels on the rear of the car.
As this is a nice flat area, it makes it a convenient place to lay
out all of the tools and parts.
3. Begin by removing the side trim piece. There are two screws one on either
end holding it down plus a ground wire screw. Use the #2 philips screw
driver and remove the two end screws and set them aside. Now use the 10mm
socket 6 inch extension and drive ratchet and remove the screw holding the
ground wire on. Lift out the trim piece and set it aside.
4. Locate the air flow meter connecter cable, it is the wide connector going
to the middle of the air flow meter. You will observe a thin wire clip
that runs about halfway around the connector bottom, and part way up and
over the two sides. Using the needle nose pliers push one of the ends
so that it dislodges over the end of the connector, now push the other end
in the same manner, you should now be able to grasp one of the ends of the
clip with the needle nose pliers and bring the end slightly out and then
down clearing the end of the connector. Lay the wire clip aside for now.
5. Now the connector will easily pull straight off, pull it off and push the
connector and the wire over out of your way for now.
6. Now locate the intake pipe elbow. This is a 2.5 to 3 inch round elbow that
feeds air down directly into the turbo. On the HKS instructions (english)
it is labeled intake pipe. There are two hose clamps holding this pipe,
loosen both clamps, and then you will need to loosen both ends of the
elbow such that it freely moves inside the rubber connecter pipes.
Do not remove the elbow, leave it in the rubber pipe comming up from the
turbo.
7. Now locate the small diameter hose comming out of the center of the bellows
looking large rubber air pipe connecter that comes off the end of the
air flow meter. This small diameter hose has two finger squeeze clamps
loosen the clamps and remove the hose. Remove the hose clamps from this
hose and set them aside as they will be used later to install the longer
hose provided in the HKS kit.
8. Locate the 4 corner clamps that hold the air box top to the air box bottom.
They are just about one in each corner. Push them off the lip of the air
box to release them. The air box top should now be loose.
Now if you completed step #6 OK then the air flow meter/air box top/bellows
pipe connector assembly should pull off the end of the elbow and the whole
unit should just lift right out.
You may find it a little difficult getting the rubber pipe ends to loose
from the plastic elbow. If you work at it for a little while it will
finally break loose. Set this whole assembly aside for right now.
9. You will see the air filter now, if it didn't come out with the air box top.
Lift out the filter and you will see the bottom of the air box. There you
will see three bolt heads holding the air box in place. Using the 12mm
socket and 6 inch extension and drive, remove the three bolts.
10. Now lift out the air box bottom. You will notice three rubber bushings
in the air box bottom, you need to remove one of them. There are two
ways you can do this. One is to push out the metal sleeve in the center
of the bushing, and then squeeze the rubber part out through the hole or
you can use your thumb, and push in on the edge of the bushing at the same
time pulling on the other side of the bushing, and push it through the
hole, it takes a little effort, but it is doable. Remember you only need
to remove one of them.
11. Set the air box aside and now you are ready for the hard part. Removing
the resonator. There are two screws and one nut/stud holding the
resonator in place. The center one is rather obviously seen, using the
10mm socket, and 6 inch extension and drive remove the nut off the center
stud. This center one is a nut on a stud, the other two are screw/washers.
Now locate the second screw, as you look at the resonator, over to the
right side towards the turbo, I used the mirror and flashlight to locate
it. Lean in over the side and see the right end of the resonator then
look down about 4 or 5 inches and the screw should be just about there.
Using the 14 inch extension, 10mm socket and drive feel for the screw head
with your left hand (I,m right handed), Feed the extension/socket/drive
assembly down at a right angle to the fire wall so that the socket end
is toward the firewall and the drive is toward the rear of the car just
under the distributor. Feel for the screw head with your left hand feeding
the socket onto the screw, and start turning with your right hand.
You should be able to keep your fingers on the screw the whole time your
turning it out. You can turn it to the point that it is loose and then
reach down and pull it out. If you drop it down on the pan below as I did
then use the magnetic wand to retrieve it.
Now you are ready for the most difficult part, the third and final screw
holding the resonator in. This screw took some time just to find it.
If you look at the left end of the resonator the end toward the gas filler
pipe, follow down about 4 or 5 inches and over and back about 2 or 3 inches
and you should see the screw head. At this time since you have removed
the other two screws use the flashlight and wiggle the resonator you should
see the metal bracket moving off the end of the resonator, follow it down
just a couple of inches and you will see the bushing and screw.
Once you have located the screw head, use the 14 inch extension with the
universal joint and 10mm socket and drive. Position the socket drive and
extension so that it is at an angle to the fire wall such that the drive
is to the right of the distributor. At this angle you should be able to
wiggle the socket on to the screw. With your left hand guide the extension
and turn the drive with your right, as the screw comes out, it should
stay in the bushing. I loosend it to the point that it was just setting
in the rubber bushing. Then my wife with very small hands reached down
and pulled it out. If you don't have a wife with very small hands then
use a long spring loaded claw gripper and pull the screw out. Or you
could just pull on the resonator and allow the screw to fall, but it is
fairly unpredictable where the screw will fall, and may be difficult to
recover.
You should now be able to lift out the resonator. Turn it slightly counter
clock wise and lift it up and out.
Now notice three rubber bushings, one on each of the the metal brackets
on the resonator, you need to remove one of them. This is very easy to
do by just bending one side or the other of the end of the bracket
that the bushing is housed in. the bushing should easily come out.
Set this bushing aside as it will be used later on one of the brackets
provided in the HKS kit. Set the resonator aside.
12. Now you are ready to work on the air flow meter and air box top assembly.
There are 4 stud nuts, and one screw holding the plastic top of the air
box onto the metal air flow meter. Using the 10mm socket and 6 inch
extension and drive, remove the three outside nuts and set them aside.
Flip the assembly over and see the 4th nut inside. It is partly covered
by a small metal tang, slightly bend the tang over to the left to give
the socket room to set on the nut and then remove it.
Now look outside again, and see the fifth screw, using the 10mm socket
remove this last screw.
13. Now gently force the air flow meter away from the plastic top, as it comes
apart there are four small metal sleeves over the four studs that are used
to center the gasket, these are not used. The assembly should come apart
fairly easy. Once it does then the metal sleeves will fall out and run
around everywhere.
Ease off the gasket and set it aside for now.
14. Oriente the air flow meter such that you are looking at the business end
and see the four studs sticking out. Make sure as you look at it that
the electrical connector is on top and pointing to the right.
As you look at the assembly the two studs on the right will be removed and
replaced with two studs that are provided in the kit.
15. Using the needle nose vise grips grip the bottom end of the stud and turn
it counter clock wise and remove it. The studs on my unit came out very
easily. Another way, if you don't want to damage the screw threads is
to get a small piece of leather, and wrap it around the screw, lock the
vise grips down tight on the leather piece and turn the stud out.
Also another way I have removed studs is turn two nuts down on the stud
such that they lock together tightly, then turn both nuts at the same time
and remove the stud that way.
Remove both right side studs and set them aside.
16. Locate the two studs supplied in the HKS kit and see that the studs have
a long threaded side, and a short threaded side. Screw the short threaded
side "partway" into the air flow meter. As these studs are "just long
enough", you can not screw them down all the way and have them fit.
What needs to be done is to turn the studs down part way so that they are
still loose.
17. Now place the rubber gasket back on to the face of the air flow meter and
make sure that it is aligned. Locate the aluminum adapter supplied in
the HKS kit and put it in place over the studs. As it is symmetrical
it has two ways to go on, either way is OK. Locate two of the nuts
that you removed from the studs and screw them down "finger tight"
on the two left studs. Now locate the bracket labeled bracket number 1
on the HKS diagram. It is the one with the semicircular shape in the
top part of the bracket. There is only one way that this bracket number 1
can go onto the studs. Look at the diagram that HKS provides and see how
it is positioned over the studs. The bracket protrudes down and to the
right. Place it over the studs, and locate the other two nuts that you
removed from the studs previously. Now, NOTE: slide the bracket so
that it pushes against the two studs, so that the studs don't turn.
Remember the studs are still somewhat loose. Turn on the nuts so that
you see that the studs are not turning with the nut. There should be
just enough length so that the stud just fills the inside of the nut.
18. Now using the 10mm socket and the 6 inch extension if you prefer, and drive
tighten the nuts in an X pattern "easily" at first such that you get an
even tightening of the nuts on the studs. Be very careful not to
over tighten the nuts. As you tighten you will see the gasket begin to
get squeezed. Tighten the nuts down to a reasonable hand tighten.
As I do not have a specific torque spec for this, I put them down to just
probably a few inch pounds of torque. One can easily judge by seeing how
much the gasket is squeezed.
19. Now locate the second bracket provided in the kit, labeled bracket number
2. Also locate the one rubber bushing that you removed from the resonator
it is the smaller rubber bushing, smaller than the one removed from the
air box bottom. Push out the metal sleeve running through the center of
the bushing, and press it onto the bracket number two, the end, of course
that has the large diameter hole in it with the slot.
NOTE: my bracket, where this large hole is, was slightly bent, due to the
punch press that punched the hole in it. So I took a 2.5 lb sledge
hammer and tapped the end just enough to flatten the end of the
bracket.
Once you have pressed the rubber bushing onto the bracket then push the
metal sleeve back into the center of the bushing.
20. Now locate the two short bolts provided in the HKS kit, these will be used
to secure the bracket number 2 to the air flow meter assembly. As you look
at the air flow meter, on the left side and towards the back, you will see
two threaded holes not previously used. The bracket number two is
positioned such that it is laid down on the front face of the flange
with the two threaded holes in it, and such that the remainder of the
bracket protrudes down and back. Look at the drawing and see how it is
oriented. Use the two short bolts and two washers provided in the HKS
kit and screw down the bracket onto the air flow meter. Tighten these
bolts, but not too tight, you don't want to strip out the threads.
Remember you are tightening into aluminum.
22. Now you are ready to place the entire assembly, the air flow meter, the
newly installed aluminum adapter, and brackets and the large bellows
looking, rubber pipe that was originally on the air flow meter.
Now orientation is everything. Before actually moving the assembly into
place, look down at the three holes where the air box bottom was screwed
into. You will see two of them one almost above the other, over to the
left side, and one over to the right. The bracket labeled bracket number
1 is going to be screwed down to the bottom left screw hole.
This will help you to see how the entire assembly is to be oriented.
The entire assembly is shoved over the the left and running parallel with
the firewall. This is why the large plastic elbow labeled intake pipe
on the HKS drawing, must be free to swivel freely in the large rubber pipe
that it sets in.
23. Place the air flow meter assembly now in the car, and push the far end of
the bellows looking rubber pipe onto the end of the elbow.
Make sure that it goes on all the way and seats properly. At the same time
you need to have one of the two screws that you removed from the resonator
in hand, because the left side bracket will be secured first.
While lifting up the air meter assembly with your left hand, put the screw
through the bushing with your right hand and start it into the screw hole.
At this point you may be slightly confused as to which hole I am talking
about. The bracket will be secured into the far hole that the resonator
was screwed down to. This is the hole closest to the turbo.
Once you have the screw started, then using the 14 inch extension, the
10mm socket and drive ratchet, position the socket onto the head of the
screw and turn it down tight. Remember back how you removed it in the
first place when taking out the resonator.
24. Now you are ready to secure the other bracket, the bracket number 1 in
the HKS drawing. Remember it is going to be secured to the bottom left
screw hole vacated by the air box bottom. Since the HKS bracket, in my
opinion was not made correctly, then this bracket rides on top of the
rubber bushing which you removed from the bottom of the air box.
Locate the large bolt supplied in the HKS kit, along with the other washer
and the rubber bushing. place the bushing down and then align the bracket
on top and press in the bolt washer combination. Using the 12mm socket
the 6 inch extension and drive ratchet, tighten this bolt into place.
NOTE: there is sufficient flex in the unit such that you will have to
push the end of the bracket over to the left to get the hole to
align.
Again as I do not have specific torque specs, you will have to use your
calibrated torque wrench hand such as I do, (calibrated over several years
of tinkering around with things like this.)
25. Now you are ready to tighten the two hose clamps on either end of the
plastic elbow labeled intake pipe in the HKS drawing. Align the hose
clamps such that they are as nearly aligned as they were originally and
such that the wires of the clamp are in the original grooves.
Using the 10mm socket and 6 inch extension and drive, tighten the two
hose clamps, and be careful not to over tighten.
26. Now you are ready to hook up the small diameter hose. Locate the hose
provided in the HKS kit and position it in the location that you removed
the old one. You will see the end pipe on the right and the end pipe
sticking out of the bellows looking rubber pipe attached to the air flow
meter. NOTE: in my case in order for the small rubber hose to fit
correctly I had to cut 6 inches off the hose, as the one HKS provided
was too long. You will want to see how it fits first and then if needed
cut it. Of course this assumes that HKS provides this hose too long in
all of its kits. Locate the two finger squeeze hose clamps that you removed
from the old hose and place one on either end of the hose. Slide the hose
ends over each of the pipes and squeeze the hose clamps and slide them
over in place on the ends. Make sure they are centered properly so that
they seal properly.
27. Now look down at the far end of the air flow meter electrical cable.
See that it comes up on the far side of another hose. What you need to
do is feed the connector and cable down, under, and around to the near
side of the hose. This will provide a little extra length such that the
cable will fit much better.
28. Orient the cable connector and press it onto the connector housing on
the air flow meter. Now locate the wire clamp that you removed
previously, and position it such that the open end is up, and put one
end of it in the original groove, using the needle nose pliers, gently
spring out the other end and align it in the opposite groove.
Use the flashlight and mirror and check the underside of the wire to see
that it has seated properly.
29. Now you are ready to install the rubber adapter hose that actually holds
the HKS filter on the end of the aluminum adapter. Locate the rubber hose
(pipe), and the smaller hose clamp provided in the HKS kit. Put the
hose clamp over the small end of the rubber pipe, and pre-tighten is
slightly. Press the rubber pipe over the end of the aluminum adapter
and make sure that it seats all the way on. You can use the mirror and
flash light to check. Now position the hose clamp screw end, and use
the 5/16 socket, 6 inch extension and rachet drive and tighten the clamp.
Again be careful not to over tighten, this type of clamp tends to be
easily broken or sprung if over tightened.
30. Now locate the larger hose clamp provided in the HKS kit and slide it over
the large end of the rubber pipe. Now locate the green filter itself and
press it on to the end of the pipe. It is fairly obvious how it has to be
oriented to fit. Position the large hose clamp and using the 5/16 socket
6 inch extension and ratchet drive, tighten this hose clamp.
Remember be careful not to over tighten.
31. Now stand back and say, "Wow!, I'm done." (well not quite yet.)
Go back and check your work. Make sure you have tighten all of the hose
clamps. (I forgot one.) :^0
32. Now you are ready to replace the outer trim piece, locate the two philips
head screws, and position the trim piece and make sure that the edge of
it rests on the plastic tabs underneath. Then using the #2 philips screw
driver, tighten the two end screws. Now locate the grounding wire screw
and position the grounding wire and screw it down to the right side of
the trim piece.
33. Cleanup and check your work one more time.
34. Your done.