Fixing a Frozen Handbrake in a MkI
From: uunet!hou.Sperry-Sun.COM!bshaw
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 13:04:32 -0600
Subject: mki mr2 handbrake
This was the requested hand brake fix for mk ones w/ frozen cables...
Here's what you will need:
materials -
2 ~15 foot sections of 1/4 inch cable (preferably plastic coated) 4
sets of cable clamps (to make loops in the cables)
tools -
something to cut the cable (cutters)
something to crimp the clamps (pliers with _alot_ of leverage or a
hammer)
procedure:
This will take at least four hours, nice to have another car around to
get stuff too!
Lift car and remove the middle and back plastic mud guards on the
underside.
Remove both parking brake cables.
This will take awhile and require a good bit of disassembly, just
remember what you've
done and keep all the peices organized. Try and understand how the
whole mechanism works
while you are doing this.
Near where the brake lever comes down, there is a bracket to which
cables were attached.
Remove that bracket from the car and bring it to a work area.
Attach the new cables to the bracket by making loops using the clamps.
These loops will
be permenat so make them small and very strong.
Mount the bracket with the new cables back on the car.
There is a bolt which adjust the tension in the cables near where the
brake lever comes
down. Adjust it to a middle-loose position for later. Remember you can
adjust this later,
but once the loops are crimped on both ends of the cable - there is no
adjusting them.
Run the loose ends of each cable through the guide eyes on the bottom
of the body.
I removed some unnessary hardware near each of the rear brakes. It is
a plate which held
the old cable.
There is a lever with a hole at the end which pulls the disc pads down
on
the rotor. The loose ends of the new cables are going to loop through
that hole on each
side of the car. Make a loop like the ones on the front and pull the
cable very taut. Make
sure this loop won't slip under the tension of the brake. Now you can
test the system.
The wheels should roll freely when the lever is down, and be firmly
stopped when the lever
pulls ~6 clicks. If this is not the case, use the bolt (under the
brake lever) I refered
to earlier to adjust the tension.
I had to cut my plastic mud covers to get a good fit during
reassembly, do it as needed.
Good luck, email if questions arise. Bobby
85na
rshaw@bit.csc.lsu.edu