mr2-digest Sunday, January 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 092 MR2 Anyone in Japan, need a part MR2 Lowering options for 91T Re: MR2 MK2 problems Re: MR2 VIN# (complete table enclosed) Re: MR2 Japan 3sgte MR2 Mk I Fuel Pump Noise Level MR2 autox Re: MR2 autox MR2 MK1 Fuel Pump upgrade Re: MR2 rain/corner/boost Re: MR2 MKI SC : Something On My Car MR2 MkII Turbo Cluch Replacement MR2 MkII Turbo: Optimal lowered springs. Re: MR2:MKI Drilling through fire..... Re: MR2 MKII Turbo Rain + Corner + Boost = ??? Re: MR2 MK1 Weird Re: MR2 mk1 sunroof rattle Re: MR2 Stop Light Bulb Replacement. Re: MR2 Re: mr2 MK2 problems (worn key) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 10 Jan 98 22:35:15 -0600 (CST) From: 1carlson@mail.airmail.net (Bryan Carlson) Subject: MR2 Anyone in Japan, need a part Anybody still in Japan that could secure a relatively small but expensive part? I have a part number and all but it is not availible here as it is for a non US model vehicel. BTW it is not for me and it is not for an MR2 so to ad some MR2 contenet I will mention that I am probably just going to go ahead and do the SCC rebuild on my motor with a bit more modest head and cam (looking for more day in day out driver friendliness) and a normal intercooler with a custom relocated BOV. Ciao Bryan PS If there is anyone who could secure this part please contact me privately ASAP. Payment arangements, shipping and even a surcharge could all be discussed but my friend is depserate for the part and has almost no other options. Thanks Again ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 23:50:20 +0500 From: T and K Subject: MR2 Lowering options for 91T Hi I'm thinking of lowering my 91T with aftermarket springs. Anyone have any recommendations or comparisons between what's available. Could anyone tell me how low the following would drop my car and how they may effect the ride? TRD Eibach H&R Suspension Techniques RSR Intrax Thanks in advance, Tario ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 98 15:47:16 From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Subject: Re: MR2 MK2 problems > Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 00:09:02 -0800 > From: "Jason Hills" > > 3. My key (I only have one, yeah, I know, I should have a spare...) > seems to unlock the drivers door and trunk better when it's turned one > way as opposed to the other (not that I can tell the difference except > by trial and error). The passenger door seems to work pretty much > equally as well with it either way. For that matter, I usually don't > have much trouble unlocking the passenger door, but the driver door > (especially) can cause me to have to fumble around to get the key just > right so that it will allow me to unlock the door. I recently had similar problems with my key. Today I went to my dealer (a weekly occurence it seems ;) to check on the status of the manuals I ordered and to order 94+ taillights... but anyway, I also looked into getting a new key cut as well. I have the original "tag" for the keys which the dealer can normally use to produce a new master key without a good-condition master key. I say normally, as I found out that my dealer can't cut keys beginning with "X" (and a few others) and of course my tag begins with "X" :( All that could be done was to use the suspect key and copy it and hope that the old key wasn't too worn out... Luckily, it wasn't :) In my case, I think it was the thickness of the key that was the problem and not the peaks and valleys. The new key seems to work much better and the bonus is that I got it cut for free ;) I would suggest that everyone check their ignition keys and if you think it's worn out, get a new copy made while you still can. Also, record your keys "tag" someplace (like your owners manual, BGB) *if* you have the original "tag" (a small metal tag with a letter followed by four or so numbers) Geoff '91t, 227,000km (black again after being white from road salt...Argh!) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 98 17:18:30 From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Subject: Re: MR2 VIN# (complete table enclosed) > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 13:02:09 EST > From: MR2Turbo91 > > I don't know about the M or N Jeff, but the SW21 indicates a NA. the SW20 is > Turbo, and the SW21 is NA. I have seen turbos as other things too I believe, > like SW22..... Ok. I'm tired of this thread so heres the complete table (formatted for your reading pleasure) of the MkII VIN codes and their relationship to engine, body type, fuel induction, etc. etc. - --- cut here --- VIN ModelCode Prod Prod Chassis Engi Body Tran Gear Steer Fuel Des Start End Type Type Shif Indc - --------- ------------ ---- ---- ---- ---- --- --- -- --- --- --- JT163SW20 SW20L-ACMZFW 8912-9112 SW20 3SGE CP MTM 5F LHD TWC W JT163SW20 SW20L-AJMZFG 8912- SW20 3SGE TBR MTM 5F LHD TWC G JT163SW20 SW20L-AJMZFW 8912-9112 SW20 3SGE TBR MTM 5F LHD TWC W JT163SW20 SW20R-ACMZFW 8912-9112 SW20 3SGE CP MTM 5F RHD TWC W JT163SW20 SW20R-AJMZFW 8912-9112 SW20 3SGE TBR MTM 5F RHD TWC W JT163SW23 SW20R-ACMZKW 8912-9208 SW20 3SFE CP MTM 5F RHD HTWC W JT163SW23 SW20R-ACPZKW 8912-9112 SW20 3SFE CP ATM 4FC RHD HTWC W JT763SW20 SW20R-AJMZFQ 8912- SW20 3SGE TBR MTM 5F RHD TWC ARL JT163SW20 SW20L-ACMZFG 8912-9501 SW20 3SGE CP MTM 5F LHD TWC G JT2SW21M SW21L-ACPZKA 9001-9506 SW21 5SFE CP ATM 4FC HTWC USA JT2SW21M SW21L-ACMZKA 9001-9506 SW21 5SFE CP MTM 5F HTWC USA JT2SW22P SW20L-AJMZZK 9001-9311 SW20L 3SGTE TBR MTM 5F TWT CND JT2SW21N SW21L-AJMZKA 9001-9506 SW21 5SFE TBR MTM 5F HTWC USA JT2SW21N SW21L-AJMZKK 9001-9311 SW21 5SFE TBR MTM 5F HTWC CND JT2SW21N SW21L-AJPZKA 9001-9201 SW21 5SFE TBR ATM 4FC HTWC USA JT2SW21P SW21L-AJMZKA 9001-9506 SW21 5SFE TBR MTM 5F HTWC USA JT2SW21P SW21L-AJMZKK 9001-9311 SW21 5SFE TBR MTM 5F HTWC CND JT2SW22J SW20L-AJMZZK 9001-9311 SW20 3SGTE TBR MTM 5F TWT CND JT2SW22M SW20L-ACMZZA 9001-9311 SW20 3SGTE CP MTM 5F TWT USA JT2SW22N SW20L-AJMZZA 9001-9506 SW20 3SGTE TBR MTM 5F TWT USA JT2SW22N SW20L-AJMZZK 9001-9311 SW20 3SGTE TBR MTM 5F TWT CND JT2SW22P SW20L-AJMZZA 9001-9506 SW20 3SGTE TBR MTM 5F TWT USA JT2SW21J SW21L-AJMZKK 9001-9311 SW21 5SFE TBR MTM 5F HTWC CND JT163SW20 SW20R-AJMZFG 9112 SW20 3SGE TBR MTM 5F RHD TWC G JT163SW20 SW20R-ACMZFG 9112 SW20 3SGE CP MTM 5F RHD TWC G Abbrev Meaning - ------ ------- CP Coupe (Standard Roof) TBR T-Bar Roof 3SFE 2000cc 16-Valve DOHC EFI 3SGE 2000cc 16-Valve DOHC EFI 3SGTE 2000cc 16-Valve DOHC EFI Turbo 5SFE 2200cc 16-Valve DOHC EFI ATM Automatic transsmission MTM Manual Transmission 4FC ATM, 4-Speed Floor Shift 5F MTM, 5-Speed Floor Shift LHD Left Hand Drive RHD Right Hand Drive HTWC High Efficiency Twin Cam TWC Twin Cam TWT Twin Cam, Turbo (With EFI) ARL Australia G Europe (US '83) W Europe CND Canada USA United States of America - --- cut here --- Geoff '91t, 227,000km (I *really* need to get a life... Anyone have one for sale? :) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 98 16:27:50 From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Subject: Re: MR2 Japan 3sgte > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 11:46:47 +0000 > From: Tony McDaid > > > 225bhp first MKII shape > > 235bhp first MKII shape with the newer 15"alloys and lower front spoiler > > 245bhp Latest MKII shape (from mid 1994) If you all look at HyperRev#21, pages 54-55, you'll see the following stats: 3S-GTE (I,II) 225ps/6000rpm, 31kg-m/3200rpm 3S-GTE (III,IV) 245ps/6000rpm, 31kg-m/4000rpm I seem to remember that 1 PS is less than 1 HP so the numbers quoted in bhp so far are bogus. Does anyone have the proper conversion formula for PS -> HP? Tony, can you get someone to translate the text on these pages so we can all find out the list of changes Toyota made to the series IV 3S-GTE engine to increase the power? (A few things are obvious from the pictures) Geoff '91t, 227,000km ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 22:04:05 -0800 From: wagner@sprynet.com Subject: MR2 Mk I Fuel Pump Noise Level I bought my 85 Mk I over the summer. During the summer months and through about 1/2 of the fall, I ran with the AC on all the time. Once the seasons changed enough that I didn't need the AC on, I started noticing a humming noise when the car was at idle. This noise was previously unheard because the noise the AC system was making seemed to mask it out. Initially, I assumed the noise was just the fan in the engine compartment. Recently, the noise started getting louder (or is it my imagination??). In any case, because the humming sound didn't change with engine revs, and it was on ALL THE TIME, I eventually traced it to the fuel pump (which became obvious when I shorted Fp and B+ on the service connector and then turned the ignition on without starting the engine). Is the fuel pump on this little guy SUPPOSED to be this loud??? If I turn off all fans in the ventilation system and turn the radio off, the noise from the fuel pump that I hear in the cockpit is louder than what I hear from the engine when idling at 800 rpm. Is this normal, or is my fuel pump getting ready to bite the dust??? Thanks, Bill Wagner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 01:05:29 -0500 From: chad Subject: MR2 autox I just got my 91 na about 3 weeks ago and it keeps getting better everytime I get in it. Anyway... I think I'd like to drive on one of these autox practice days you guys are talking about but I'm not sure where the closest one is to me. I live in upstate SC. Anybody know of a track near here, or where I can find out where a close one is at? Thanks. chad 91 na ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 22:56:04 -0800 From: Randy Chase Subject: Re: MR2 autox Not sure what upstate in SC is..but I found the following URLS to check out: http://www.auto-x.com/ (North Carolina) http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hsauls/ccr.htm (Central Carolinas) http://www.tsquare.com/tscc/ (Virginia) http://www.inmind.com/people/overst/index.html (Tennesee and Southeast) There may be others. You can check at http://autocross.com/autoc/clublist.htm for other clubs and areas (this is a partial list). If you still can't find a schedule/region/group, e-mail me and I will ask the folks on TEAM.NET (the autox mailing list) for contacts. Some areas of the country would love some new members to show up. A lot of areas shut down their season for winter (or snow/ice race) and start in spring (but their gas is cheaper 8). For everyone who hasn't checked it out, see: http://www.ner.org/soloII/whatis.html (general info) http://www.sfrscca.com/solo2/beginner.html (also has great links you will find helpful) http://www.tirerack.com/features/solo2/handbook.htm (awesome info) You can find set up info all over, but see also: http://autocross.com/autoc/toyota.htm There is good stuff at http://www.scca.com/amateur/solo.html including some info on ProSoloII (which is a blast!) Randy Chase *no, I don't work for SCCA* 8) '91 MR2 N/A ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 23:17:48 -0800 (PST) From: matt ledbetter Subject: MR2 MK1 Fuel Pump upgrade Anyone out there know of an in-tank pump that will swap in for the stock pump on a mk1,sced? Or should I just add an inline pump? - -Matt '88 Twincharged _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 98 23:33:32 From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Subject: Re: MR2 rain/corner/boost > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 18:06:43 -0800 > From: Randy Chase > > SoloII events, where I tend to spin the car at the finish and reverse > thru the timing lights. 8-) Show off ;) > I am installing a video camera in the car. I want to create a tape of > all the spins I do in one year. My motto is "be good, be fast, or be > entertaining". 8-) I'd pay money for this... > '91 MR2 N/A "MAYSPIN" <--- thinking of getting licence plates Or how about "DIDSPIN","HASSPUN","WILSPIN","SPUN250","GYROSCP","GYRATE", "WHIRLY","WHIRLED","TWIRL","TWIRLED","SPIRAL","HELICAL","SPINNER","WEEEEEE" :) Geoff '91t, 227,000km (0 spins in auto-cross, lots of near spins ;) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Jan 98 23:03:57 From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Subject: Re: MR2 MKI SC : Something On My Car > Date: Sun, 11 Jan 98 11:36:42 PST > From: "David Youl" > > I use Meguiars products and find them excellent. > ... > No I don't work for Meguiars, just use their product and swear by them. I concur with David. If you want paint a smooth as glass and shiney as a mirror, do the following: - Meguiars clay bar to remove surface particals - Meguiars paint cleaner to remove old wax and oxidation - Meguiars swirl remover to fill in all the swirl marks and scratches - Meguiars wax to bring out the shine... Use an orbital buffer to save your arms take your time. Don't skip steps either or you will not get the desired results... The above makes my black '91t look like it just rolled out of the showroom... Geoff '91t, 227,000km ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 19:10:46 +0000 From: Tony McDaid Subject: MR2 MkII Turbo Cluch Replacement Hi, After 72,000km my cluch is finally on the way out. It's been slipping in 4th and there's been the tell tale smell when I've got out of the car. I'm having it replaced with a TRD one- I hear they are quite good. Also while the shop is in there, they are going to overhaul the gearbox and fix the syncs!! I'm REAL happy about that as 2nd and 3rd are clunking when going down AND up through the gears. The whole lot will cost about US$1,000 which is a pretty good price I think. My question; is there anything else I should have done while I have the chance? I thought about having them do the valves too but that was just too expensive- maybe another time... Thanks for any advice. Tony McDaid tony@akina.ne.jp http://www.akina.ne.jp/~tony/ `89 MkII Turbo T-Bar ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:21:59 +1100 From: John Wan Subject: MR2 MkII Turbo: Optimal lowered springs. Hi All, I have a friend who has just brought some 17 x 8 inch 38mm offset Enkei RP01 Slick spokes. He has a Japanses imported 1991 MR2 Turbo.(Very rare in Australia). He has put 215x40x17 on the front, and 235x40x17 on the back. The problem is that is car is currently too low. (2.5inch lowered all round). He needs to make a set of new springs. Does anyone know how much my friend should lower the car from the stock spring and position. We are getting a new set made up, not by cutting the orginal springs. He does not want the slam dunk look, which the 2.5inch lowered spring does to the car. He want the car to rideon the same tire level front and back, with the possbility of a slightly lower front. PS : want is the best camber for the car to get the longest tire wear?? Can anyone help??? Thanks in advance. John Wan. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 06:55:20 -0400 From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MR2:MKI Drilling through fire..... >Anybody have any suggestions on where the best place is to drill through the >firewall behind the seat? The reason being to run a power wire from an Amp. to >the battery. Better yet, does anyone know EXACTLY where Toyota routes the >wires coming from the engine compartment to the cockpit? Are they in the >center console, or are they on the lower driverside firewall? The main pathway for wires to enter the passenger compartment is a hole a few inches below the engine-bay release lever. Steve B. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 06:55:46 -0400 From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MR2 MKII Turbo Rain + Corner + Boost = ??? >You do learn what happens on a spin. Steve is correct about the second >part of the correction getting you. It's the whipping of the back end >around when you correct that is much more violent. However, I do think >you can learn how to deal with this. I catch the spin a lot more now >than I used to, though I agree some spins are already gone by the time >you can do anything. But that's the part that makes it so difficult - you're correcting for a spin that hasn't actually happened yet. Say you're exiting a freeway, and take a right clover leaf, in the middle, you start to spin. But to correct the spin, you have to start correcting the spin before the spin occurs. So you are turning the steering wheel to the right, *know* the spin is going to occur, then turn the steering wheel to the left (to correct) and back right (to continue the turn). Can you imagine the look on someone's face when you turn the wheel to the left on a right turn, to keep a spin from not happening (as as the spin didn't happen, they won't believe that you were going to spin out)? Sort of a catch-22, isn't it? Steve B. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 06:55:52 -0400 From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MR2 MK1 Weird >Is it going to hurt the car, now that it is running better....It may have >been off before, but it runs much better now, I dont want to change it >back!!!!! If you're aren't sure if it's hurting the car or not, find out. But let's take a look at your statement - you have made a modification to engine parameters which has improved performance, you really like the result, but you don't want to put the engine back. Sounds just like overboosting, without enough fuel delivery (as an example). You wanna blow up your engine - go right ahead. Steve B. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 06:55:55 -0400 From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MR2 mk1 sunroof rattle >Anybody know the part number (s) for the two snap-in black clips that >the sunroof fits into? >I assume these are the parts that people keep talking about as being the >reason my roof is rattling >(when open) and recently leaking (when closed). I knnow the one on the >passenger side is broken. >Thanks Nope, but I'll bet your local Toyota parts counter can find out for you. Steve B. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 06:55:59 -0400 From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MR2 Stop Light Bulb Replacement. >Austin Tracy and I had Bkfst today to BS about MR2' and the >coming SSC. He noticed, when we left the restaurant that my >left stoplight wasn't working. >The Owners Manual says to pry off the outside lens and the >rest will just come out. I just couldn't bring myself to put >a lot of pressure on the lens with a screwdriver. >Is there a secret to this? I'm sure the lens costs big $. >Austin has a neat car. Especially like his wheels,very nice >15". Must get some. >Regards, >Steve The directions are accurate. If nervous, wrap electrical tape to the screwdrive blade. BTW, it's all explained in the owners manual (glove box). Steve B. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 06:56:03 -0400 From: bagdon@rust.net (S and K Bagdon) Subject: Re: MR2 Re: mr2 MK2 problems (worn key) >the least expensive solution is to go to your Toyota dealer and have the code >read from your existing key. Since Toyota uses fixed depths (I think there >are 4) for the keys, it should be easy to read them from the less worn side. >Many dealers will be able to "punch" a new key for you. If your dealer can't >do it, then take the key to a locksmith. They can look it up in their books, >too, but it will cost more. Then make *many* copies of this pritine key and >save for a rainy day! I wouldn't recommend this (but everyone is allowed to do whatever they want). *Any* imperfections on the key will be tranposed from the old key. Better to start 'from scratch'. I'd make a key from the code on the passenger door lock cylinder, having Toyota make one from the hand-held 'punch-tool' key maker. Then make dupes from that from a key cutting machine. If you *ever* have the passenger interior trim panel off for any reason, I'd strongly recommend that you identify the lock code, and store it in a safe place. This will keep you from having to take apart the door in a pinch. Steve B. ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V2 #92