mr2-digest Friday, 26 January 1996 Volume 01 : Number 096 Re: mr2-digest V1 #94 V8 MR2 Re: mr2-digest V1 #94 Re: mr2-digest V1 #94 RE: Drag starts and Shifting Strut Replacement Questions Injection Manifolds Re: TVVC/EVC and boost spiking Re: several questions Sticking brakes? Where to find parts HKS EVC PIR Driving Classes RE: Ski racks all fans are on? Tires - Potenza S-O2s #2 Alternator on 91 MR2 Turbo ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos " Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 17:06:39 +0200 Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #94 >Subject: Upgraded tires and rims... > >Hi there everyone. Normally I just read the digest and don't post >anything to it, but I have a question for all of you. I have an '89 SC >MKI and am planning to upgrade the OEM 185/60/R14" wheels to 215/40/R16" >wheels. In addition, I also plan to lower the suspension by one inch with >TRD components. People on the digest have indicated that tire clearance >for the 16" wheels would not be a problem with the stock suspension. >However, I was wondering for my situation: > > 1. Will there be tire clearance problems with the 16" wheels and the > lowered suspension? You will have to check this very closely > 2. Will the width of the 215/40/R16 cause steering problems > (i.e. will the tires be too wide such that I can't turn the > steering wheel to its locked position without rubbing the fender) It will cause steering problems, 215 is VERY WIDE for a front tire. It is widw even for a MKII. It will bump-steer...very annoying.... > 3. Should I consider a 15" tire instead? YES > 4. Which modification should I do first (i.e. lower the > suspension and then get the tires or vice versa?) Do the suspension first > >Thanks in advance, > >Jason >- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ___________ ________________ ________ __ ___/__ | / /__< /___ __ )___ __/ _____ \ __ | / / __ / __ __ |__ / ____/ / __ |/ / _ / _ /_/ / _ / /____/ _____/ /_/ /_____/ /_/ (Kostas G. D. Chryssos Ph.D.) 30,Ikarias str. Glyfada GR16675, Athens, Hellas Tel: xx-301 9628212, Fax: xx-301 9628539 ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!AstonMrtn Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 10:31:35 -0500 Subject: V8 MR2 Race Car Engineering (V5N3) had an article about the 24 hrs of LeMans...someone entered an MR2 in the GT-1 class (to compete against cars like the McLaren F1)...but this was no ordinary MR2...it had a longitudinally mounted 4.0L Lexus V-8 putting out 600hp at 6100rpm!!! :0 No pictures of the overall car, just a picture of the engine bay. Pretty packed, but it looks like a street conversion may be possible... The car suffered from major clutch trouble and didn't finish the race. - -Matt '91 White NA ...maybe in a year or so I'll be able to write '91 White V-8.... ------------------------------ From: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos " Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 17:22:50 +0200 Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #94 >From: uunet!idirect.com!mrtwo (Bill Chen) >Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 20:25:56 -0500 >Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #93 > > I was wondering if anyone else is having problems with their leather >seats on their Mk II MR2. Aside from the fading black leather, I now have to >remove the seats of my stored MR2 and have the seats repaired. It seams the >stitching on the seat part has come out at two places. The stitch in between >is coming out which will soon leave me with a six inch rip. I'm looking at >about two hours multiplied by $50. Bill, things are not so bad...you can do everything yourself...and enjoy. The leather covers is ...well not so much leather as you may think. Leather is the middle section only, that part that has the small holes on it, where the sides and back is plastic.(sad) Anyway, if the covers are in a bad shape...not repairable, then starting from bottom to top you can remove then, cutting loose the rings that hold it from the inside with a pair of pliers (side cutter). You remove the cover like a pillow cover turning the inside out. You watch how it is held from the inside and where the wire bars are, you see them from the inside. Then you purchase stock replacements and work them top to bottom in reverse using ty-wraps instead of the wire rings. The ty-wraps tie down better and everything looks pro. Cut the ty-wrap ends flush after pulling them tight. You will have to remove the seats of course. Both seats took me an afternoon each. Costs much less too. I would not recommend to re-do the rips...seems the material does not hold much. > Also is there any way to test a turbo? I'd like to know if mine is >not performing up to par so that I can have it replaced before my ECP >expires. Thanks. Yes, if you get full deflection, no excess noise and no oil spill it should be OK. ___________ ________________ ________ __ ___/__ | / /__< /___ __ )___ __/ _____ \ __ | / / __ / __ __ |__ / ____/ / __ |/ / _ / _ /_/ / _ / /____/ _____/ /_/ /_____/ /_/ (Kostas G. D. Chryssos Ph.D.) 30,Ikarias str. Glyfada GR16675, Athens, Hellas Tel: xx-301 9628212, Fax: xx-301 9628539 ------------------------------ From: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos " Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 17:36:45 +0200 Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #94 > >Subject: Stereo Wiring Harness > >Has anybody out there who's car originally came with the 3-in-1 stereo tried to >wire in an after-market stereo? > >Is there an easy way to replace the deck (i.e. a wiring harness available that >is a direct plug-in)? Or am I pretty much stuck with re wiring the whole car? > >I would like to retain the original wiring if at all possible while using the >stock subwoofer amplifier, but if I have to rewire the car there's no way I'm >not putting something better in. Since I also could not find a mate plug to the two that came out of the radio, I cut them with a 3" length of wire, installed an aftermarket multiplug female to the wires on the car harness, and a male mate to the wires on the stock plugs. This to be able to convert to stock. On the new radio (a 2DIN PIONEER) I connected the wires out of it to a second male mate, keeping the radio wires as short as posible to avoid wire bundles. This is the best. You will need a crimping pliers to work those small male/female metal contacts on the wires prior to inserting them on the plug plastic holder. Also watch male/female left/right to match...it easy to make mistakes...and those contacts when inserted to the holder plug is very dif to get out again. > >I purchased an adapter that's supposed to make a direct connection, but it isn't >anything close to the plug that came out of the back of the 3-in-1. > > >Kip Anderson >kca@interserv.com > >P.S. This really makes me wish I had a manual so I could at least figure out >what wires go where. I can scan the drawings from the electrical repair manual and e-mail them as attachment to you if you receive directly. Let me know...also year model too. > >------------------------------ > ___________ ________________ ________ __ ___/__ | / /__< /___ __ )___ __/ _____ \ __ | / / __ / __ __ |__ / ____/ / __ |/ / _ / _ /_/ / _ / /____/ _____/ /_/ /_____/ /_/ (Kostas G. D. Chryssos Ph.D.) 30,Ikarias str. Glyfada GR16675, Athens, Hellas Tel: xx-301 9628212, Fax: xx-301 9628539 ------------------------------ From: "Burns, James B." Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 10:00:00 EST Subject: RE: Drag starts and Shifting >Here's something else to think about. In our work on 1st to 2nd shifts, we >found that >a fast shift didn't make that much difference if you really wound the >engine out, >and had the Rs up somewhat when you dropped it into 2nd. It was more >important to >keep a good torque thing happening than it was to shift quickly. This is >something >that I've found most Solo drivers don't pay much attention to. I've thought about it, but since I (and most autoxers) don't have an onboard computer I don't really know what's best. I've been told that based on calculations involving gear ratios and torque curve that shifting at redline (7000 in my case) is best, but by my seat-of-the-pants computer my car's torque seems to drop off very quickly after 6200 rpm so it feels like I'm better off shifting earlier. I've even queried the MR2 list hoping that some drag racers could give me the definitive answer, but none did. I guess I need one of them fancy computer things. Brad Burns '94 MR2T ------------------------------ From: "Burns, James B." Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 10:18:00 EST Subject: Strut Replacement Questions Has anyone on this list done their own strut replacement? If so, can you tell me how difficult it was and which special tools you need? I've read the procedure in the service manual and I think I can handle it. I'll need to rent or buy a spring compressor, but other than that I think that large wrenches and vice grips can be used in place of the special service tools listed in the book. Anyone got any advice on this? Brad Burns '94T James.B.Burns@jhuapl.edu ------------------------------ From: aly abulkheir Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 13:16:03 -0500 (EST) Subject: Injection Manifolds Forwarded message: >From toyota-mods-owner@CyberAuto.Com Wed Jan 24 19:55 EST 1996 From: aly abulkheir Message-Id: <199601250011.TAA16844@matrix.newpaltz.edu> Subject: Injection Manifolds To: toyota-mods@cyberspace.cyberauto.com Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 19:11:28 -0500 (EST) X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL24] Sender: owner-toyota-mods@CyberAuto.Com Precedence: bulk Content-Type: text Content-Length: 360 I was wondering if anyone knows approximately how much it costs for a Sport Injection Intake Manifold or similar manifold. And are these setups street legal? I saw one used on the ITAC MR2 in Turbo Magazine in '91, but none of these questions were addressed. Thanks, Aly, '85 MR2, red with all options abulkh34@matrix.newpaltz.edu ------------------------------ From: uunet!softy.softwords.bc.ca!geoff Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 14:00:30 PST Subject: Re: TVVC/EVC and boost spiking I heard about problems with boost spiking and the EVC III as well which is why I delayed my purchase and eventually went with the new GReddy PRofec boost controller which is supposed to be able to control spiking. It basically has all the features of the HKS unit as well. (It's cheaper too!) I'm still waiting on my FCD, but once it's installed and I've had a chance to dial up the boost, I'll report on just how good the PRofec unit is at preventing spiking... Geoff '91t, 162,300km (about to go sliding in the snow!! :-) ------------------------------ From: uunet!ix.netcom.com!nazgul (Roderick Mielo ) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 18:41:53 -0800 Subject: Re: several questions "The owner's manual (and previous owner) recommended idling the car for a minute or two after hard runs before shutting it off. I've noticed that during these idle cycles, there is a whine from the engine compartment that shuts off after about a minute. The whine sounds like a cooling fan (much lower in pitch than the turbo) or something and I assume it's a natural sound. Is that what I'm waiting for when I'm idling down? If not, is there any cue as to when it's OK to kill the engine?" That could possible be the power steering as it powers down. Next time you hear it stop, move the steering wheel alittle, and if the whine returns, that's it. I was told by Toyota dealers that it was "Operating as Designed" (God, I hate that phrase). Not sure of a standard "idle down" time. My usual is 30 secs. Regards. - -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Roderick Mielo, alias: nazgul@ix.netcom.com From Castle Rock's "Wolf Shire" Ranch zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ------------------------------ From: "Keith R. Hallam" Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 10:23:20 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Sticking brakes? Dear All, It's too cold for me to bother going out now, jacking up the car and having a look in the work's carpark, but would a frozen hand brake cable be a good guess as to why my rear passenger (left hand side as you sit in it) wheel had smoke and smells coming out of it, after the car dragged itself rather reluctantly, it seemed, to work this morning? It was probably -3 or so degrees C last night, but with no snow, rain, or whatever (windy, though). This hasn't happened before (well, I thought I smelled something yesterday, but then forgot about it) . Is there anything else I should look for when poking around behind the wheel at the weekend? I know handbrake cables had been discussed in the past, but I mostly ignored the messages, thinking it would only happen in the American midwest or East coast! Thankyou, - -- Dr. Keith R. Hallam University of Bristol, Interface Analysis Centre, Oldbury House, 121, St. Michael's Hill, Bristol, BS2 8BS, England Telephone: + 44 (0)117 925 5666 | E-mail: k.r.hallam@bristol.ac.uk Facsimile: + 44 (0)117 925 5646 | URL: http://zeus.bris.ac.uk/~phkrh/ ------------------------------ From: Carl Johnson Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 10:45:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: Where to find parts Well I'm still going forward on my quest to put a turbo on my '89 NA, but I have a few questions. I'm going to need piping to connect the airbox to the turbo and the turbo to the intercooler. Where would be the best place to find this kind of stuff? What kind of materials are suitable for this? I'm also going to need some lines to run oil to the turbo, again what kind and where to find? Also where is the best place to tap into to get oil to the turbo? Hmmm that is a lot of questions but if I can get these out of the way the turbo install will be as easy as 1-2-C. Thanks, Carl ------------------------------ From: uunet!bendnet.com!jdshort (John & Diana Short) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 08:14:08 -0800 Subject: HKS EVC First impressions are that HKS definitely could spend a bit more energy on the manual for the EVC III. Its not warm enough for me to give any driving impressions yet, but programming impressions are full of confusion, and I haven't even gotten to the atomspheric compensation part. You'd think a device with 5 buttons and a switch wouldn't be that complicated, but... A few examples would have done wonders. Like the gentleman that wrote the EVC Impressions on the Web site, I haven't got a clue what OFFSET mode is other than smaller numbers mean more boost. Great, so if I put in 5 will I blow my engine? How about 57? 183? Not a clue here. I'm sure things will improve with experience. John Happy Notes from the Short Family Frog Farm! 93T ------------------------------ From: uunet!bendnet.com!jdshort (John & Diana Short) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 08:14:12 -0800 Subject: PIR Driving Classes Here are Team Continental's track day dates for 1996 at PIR. I'll post the other sports car club's as soon as I receive them. Rain or Shine (Remember, this is Portland!) March 23 May 3 (Friday) August 30 (Port Orford) September 27 (Friday) October 26 Cost $99 (Port Orford $70) Entry Forms: Howard Allen 7945 SW 74th Ave. Portland, OR 97223 (503) 246-4852 First come, first served. Classes start at 7:30am (for tech inspection, explanation of flags, etc) Actual driving probably starts closer to 10am and goes until 4 or 5pm. If you have not had a driving class before, they require you to attend a 3 hour class room ground school the night before. Its way fun and safe. Hope to see more than just my shiny MR2 there! Happy Notes from the Short Family Frog Farm! 93T ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!AstonMrtn Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 16:24:14 -0500 Subject: RE: Ski racks > and saw an MR2 with T-tops with a ski rack attached to the T- >tops. I don't know what brand it was, but obviously ski racks for >T-tops do exist. I don't doubt what you saw, but I'm not convinced it was a ski rack designed for an MR2 with t-tops. The t-tops have rain gutters on them, so there's nothing stopping you from installing a conventional Yakima-style ski rack on top. Problem is, you're clamping down on glass, not metal, on each of the rack towers. And glass doesn't like to be compressed! If that's what they did, I wouldn't be suprised if they cracked their t-tops on the first big bump they hit. The only reliable way to mount a rack to a t-topped car would be to have all the mounts connected to metal and metal only. Not in contact with ANY glass. I don't see how the ski rack you saw could have done that without drilling holes in the top sheetmetal. - -Matt '91 White NA ------------------------------ From: uunet!netrunner.net!hkphoto (howard kuflik) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 19:02:36 -0500 Subject: all fans are on? Last Post???? The fans on the radiator dont shut off at all...the code when checked says"11" can you tell me where that is ????? (says A/C switch???is that in the car that controls blower?) I replaced the temp switch in the radiator and they still stay on... So much for warming the engine up... Thanks Howard 1986 MR-2 n/a ------------------------------ From: Kerry Wood Date: 26 Jan 96 21:15:45 EST Subject: Tires - Potenza S-O2s #2 To All, Sent this post out previously, but received no replies. Either it got lost or the question(s) are inane or just plain stupid. If so, tell me and I will will be more than willing to listen to those of you with greater wisdom/knowledge on this subject. So here goes once again: Since tire and wheel combinations seem to be rocket science (and since I don't seem to be a rocket scientist, despite all my trips to the web site), have any of you considered installing Bridgestone Potenza S-02's on a '93T or later MkII? Or have you considered Michelin MXX3? Would like to use 16" aftermarket wheels since IMHO oem brake discs look rather small w/ larger than 16's and can't afford both wheels/tires and brakes at this point. Additionally, speedometer is dead on now and would like to keep it as close to that way as possible if possible. Any comments, suggestions, railings at my lunacy will be most appreciated. Thanks. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Kerry Wood '93T Black (mildly modified) The more people I meet, the more I like my dog! _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ------------------------------ From: uunet!gnn.com!JWTodd60 (John Todd) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 16:47:30 Subject: Alternator on 91 MR2 Turbo Help! I'm up to my arm pits in MR2 guts trying to get the alternator out of my wife's car. I've managed to remove everything on it that shows up in the manual (2 wires, 2 bolts), but it doesn't want to come out. It flops around as if the pivot bolt is still in, but it seems that no amount of grunting will get it free of the mounting bracket. So: 1. Did I miss something? 2. Do I just need to beat on it some more? Also, now that I'm this far, I'm looking at the space I have to work with, and I'm not sure that I have room to actually fish it out, even if I can get it loose. Can anyone verify that I do or don't have enough room (i.e., is this all just futile and should I just give up and take it to someone who gets paid for this stuff?)? Please respond directly to me at jwtodd60@gnn.com. And hurry, it's cold, and soon to be very wet here in upstate NY, and I have no garage to work in :-(. TIA John Todd ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V1 #96