mr2-digest Friday, 19 January 1996 Volume 01 : Number 090 Re: mr2-digest V1 #88 MRJ Re: boost gauges Hella Headlights Re: TVVC/boost pressure/fuel cutoff Re: Removing Passenger Seat? Re: mr2-digest V1 #89 Engine cleaning Re: Removing Passenger Seat. radiator fans Re: mr2-digest V1 #89 EVC for sale Mk I fuel filter accident 375 Hp TVVC ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: uunet!aol.com!JElder9843 Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 19:35:55 -0500 Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #88 In a message dated 96-01-18 11:18:20 EST, you write: >From: Adam Grove Re: Hella headlight replacements from Mr2 Performance products. I too recently installed these headlights with 55W/100W bulbs. Believe me, they are awesome. High beam is like being in the cockpit of a Harrier Jump Jet coming in to land. If your headlight replacements are as bad as you say, then they are definately not the model I got. Check it out with John at Mr2 Performance Products. He has great stuff and exceptional service. Steve jelder9843@aol.com ------------------------------ From: Mark Sink Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 22:36:06 -0500 Subject: MRJ Bob Carol Said the MRJ is lighter. Lighter than what? And what IS the weight? Mark ------------------------------ From: uunet!interserv.com!kca Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 20:08:22 -0800 Subject: Re: boost gauges Gerald writes: >> BTW, the factory boost gauge is USELESS for monitoring any change in boost. << Agreed. I have seen my Autometer gauge jump to 20 psi and back down to 15 psi (about a 2 second process) before the stock gauge has passed the half-way tick. Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com ------------------------------ From: Kerry Wood Date: 18 Jan 96 22:28:05 EST Subject: Hella Headlights - ---Adam Grove writes: > Are you sure HB2 are 100/55W? Adam is correct - H4 is 100/55W. Just dug out the box to look. Told you I couldn't see didn't I? ;-) - ---On same subject,Mark Sink writes: > Notice how direct the lighting is, shining on object on front > of you you can see a clear cut horizontal beam... Have noticed very distinct cut off at top of headlight low beam that does bob up and down some, but have not yet had anyone think I am flashing high beams. This probably result of softer MkII stock suspension. Will be interesting to see what tokico's do in this regard. Unlike Adam, my impression is that there is actually more light in front of the car on low beam (55W) but it is spread over a larger area than stock with a noticeable, and as Mark notes, direct "hot spot" near the center of the lighted area. There is considerable contrast between the hot spot and the spill beyond it, the spill looking somewhat yellow by comparison. Initially, the impression is that there is less light out in front, but as you get used to the lights, you notice that you can actually see much more of the road and things adjacent to it. High beam (100W) is truly incredible - no upper cut off, light everywhere - on signs a mile down the road, on trees, on shrubs, on houses, low-flying aircraft, etc. but again w/ noticeable but much larger, direct hot spot in front of the car. The result is that you can see everything in and out of your path of travel and better avoid any hazzards! Additionally, cannot wait to run into one of those twits that insists on driving around w/ high beams on regardless. The 100W units should fry his/her retinas! Once again, thanks John and keep up the good work! Really like these lights! _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Kerry Wood '93T Black (mildly modified) The more people I meet, the more I like my dog! _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ------------------------------ From: uunet!interserv.com!kca Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 21:15:58 -0800 Subject: Re: TVVC/boost pressure/fuel cutoff >My next mod was to add the Greddy TVVC so I could crank up the boost :) > >But.... After I installed it and turned it all the way down, it would crank >up over the max allowed by the fuel cut :( - so as you can imagine..... >just as I'm about to say bye bye to a corvette ( or any other american would >be sports car ) *bang* brick wall >no boost allowed until I shut the car off for a few seconds and let the >computer reset. >by just adding this TVVC is that causing enough restriction to do this?? Can >I lower the amount of restriction by shortening the hoses connecting the >compressor housing to the TVVC and the TVVC to the waste gate actuator?? >HELP!!! > >Signed >I know my car is faster, but I just can't prove it >aka: Larry S. NYC As I posted earlier, I have had the same experience with elevated boost just by installing the TVVC. The lowest constant maximum boost level I can now set is 10 psi. This is not beyond the point at which cut-off is supposed to occur, however, at about 3000 to 3500 rpms the boost level will peak at around 11 psi probably due to the increased air volume of the actuator system from the extensive hose length. The extra hose volume will slow wastegate response. Your other mods may be affecting _wastegate restricted_ boost levels, but you could probably reduce restriction by shortening the hoses and eliminating kinks. You could also try using a slightly larger hose for less overall restriction (the hoses that came with my TVVC were one size too small), but the spiking may get worse from the increased air volume. An easier fix would be to add the HKS FCD. It's possible that your other mods are allowing spiking to occur more quickly than the actuator can now compensate for. You may be running an acceptable level of boost beyond the initial peaking, but because the computer shuts you down, you have no way to verify this. I doubt the spiking is more than about 1-2 psi, but it must be enough. I have approximately 1.5 m of the hose installed for the TVVC to allow mounting in the center console between the seats. I also have the FCD installed. With the TVVC cranked to full restriction (no other mods present aside from the FCD), I can get a peak boost _at the turbo_ in excess of 20 psi. This rapidly drops to about 15.5 - 16 psi as the revs increase (apparently the most the stock induction system will flow). With the TVVC dialed to allow a constant 15 psi, peak boost will reach about 16 psi for a few hundred rpms. Supposedly Electronic Valve Controllers are designed to fix the spiking, but for my purposes this is not a problem. Since the stock turbo really isn't capable of producing boost levels high enough to damage the engine under normal circumstances, overboosting is not a big problem. Thus the TVVC is probably adequate for most applications, but if you intend to run a higher capacity turbo, you should be concerned about this. In the long run: If you want to adjust boost pressure with the TVVC, you'll probably be happiest by splurging for the FCD. Either that or spend a lot more on an EVC (Not worth it IMNSHO if you don't plan on some serious mods). One final note: I am by no means an expert at this turbo charging stuff. I can only hope that my experiences and conclusions provide useful information to those that care enough read about them. (Gives me the right to say "I told you so!" if I should happen to be wrong :-) Kip Anderson 91 MR2 Turbo kca@interserv.com ------------------------------ From: Stuart Smith Date: Fri, 19 Jan 96 09:43:56 GMT Subject: Re: Removing Passenger Seat? >Can someone forward me directions on how to remove the passenger seat? I'm >trying to install an amplifier for the stereo and under the seat appears to be >the best place as I will power new 6" speakers in the doors. Also, if anyone >has experienced any problems with this sort of operation I'd love to hear about >them before I start taking apart my car. Thanks- > >Charlie Reynolds >'92 NA The seat's a scoosh to get out. 2 minute job. This is a Mk1 , but I'm sure it's the same. It's an 11mm socket I think. 4 bolts. 2 back, 2 front, take 'em out and voila! This is where I have my amp too. Stu ------------------------------ From: Stuart Smith Date: Fri, 19 Jan 96 09:40:36 GMT Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #89 >From: Thomas F Wahjudi >Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 11:30:17 -0500 (EST) >Subject: Hella headlight >Adam Grove, > I put Hella H4s on my brother '89 SC. They are not the vision plus, I >guess (I don't remember the name of the other type). I also use stock wiring >to light up the 90/135W Ion Crystal PIAA H4 bulbs which is okay up to now. I >didn't get a chance to put on the custom wiring harness (from IPF), but I >suppose, the custom harness will make the headlights somewhat brighter and I >run less chance of the stock wiring getting hot. However, if you want to run >100/170W IPF H4 bulbs (which my Land Cruiser uses), it's mandatory to use >custom wiring harness. Hope this help. On this thread.. if anyone remembers, I'd sent away for some H4 90/130s for my Mk1 Mr2. I got these last weekend. Fitted them no probs... Thankfully it looks like I was right about all Mr2's in UK spec having semi-sealed beams. I though I might need to upgrade the fuse. I figured the best way is to try them ... if it goes, I need a bigger fuse :-) So , it didn't, even when flashing with headlights on (which puts dipped and full on at the same time). So alls well. Performance: dipped aint that different.. I've got 180W instead of 110W, but it's still pointing at the road, so it just lights the same section of the road brighter! However main beam is awesome. When you're driving through country lanes at night, you don't feel like you are hanging on with a prayer anymore.. everything is lit up for a good 600-800 yards. Makes driving at 90+ at night round these roads feel good again, rather than getting the fear of GOD up you :-). Well recommended to anyone who does real night driving. Stu ------------------------------ From: "Gary Friedman" Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 22:15:05 +0000 Subject: Engine cleaning Roderick-- I asked my mechanic the same question and he said to avoid hitting the distributor cap or plug boots directly (93 MKII). He promised it would start afterwards. I was kind of surprised that it did!!!!!!!!! I gave a real good soaking with a soapy pressure wand and the difference is truly amazing. There was actually a clean engine under all that gunk! But be careful with those pressurized self-washes...... Test the wand on your arm like a baby bottle!! If it feels piercing or sharp its probably strong enough to damage your paint, severely over time, -- and push through to drench your cap and boots. Years ago I had one of those things rip the pinstripes off a Nissan!! Gary ------------------------------ From: uunet!zeta.org.au!embee (Mark Bosma) Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 22:24:49 +1100 Subject: Re: Removing Passenger Seat. Charlie Reynolds wrote: >Can someone forward me directions on how to remove the passenger seat? I'm >trying to install an amplifier for the stereo and under the seat appears to be >the best place as I will power new 6" speakers in the doors. Also, if anyone >has experienced any problems with this sort of operation I'd love to hear about >them before I start taking apart my car. Thanks- The seats come out really easily: four bolts (the front ones arew under the cover doovers). Tilt them forward when unbolted and they lift out. Dont scratch the doors. Replacing is just as easy... torque to 27 ft-lbs. Problems: make sure when you try the amplifier in place, before hand, you actually sit on the seat... the under side sinks down quite a bit. If you dont, you will find it a bit hard on the butski when you crash land on entry. If you are looking for somewhere else to put it (the amplifier, not your tail) and your car isn't fitted with a woofer behind the left seat, there is a useful cavity where the woofer isn't. The cover (in the same place as the t-top cover compartment on the rh side) can be lifted with a large flat screwdriver, working from the front to pop a couple of plastic clips; it then hinges up like the lid on the right side. Have fun ... don't cut corners with the wiring. Audio wiring tends to let you down without letting the smoke out! Mark Bosma 94 SW20 Bathurst. ------------------------------ From: uunet!netrunner.net!hkphoto (howard kuflik) Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 07:21:39 -0500 Subject: radiator fans Well it's me again with the project car from hell....this time the fans on the radiator dont shut off at all...the code when checked says"11" can you tell me where that is ????? (says A/C switch???is that in the car that controls blower?) I replaced the temp switch in the radiator and they still stay on... So much for warming the engine up... Thanks Howard 1986 MR-2 n/a ------------------------------ From: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos " Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 16:03:06 +0200 Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #89 >, 17 Jan 1996 15:00:33 -0500 (EST) >Subject: Gulping Sound... > Indigestion Maybe????? (Check the cooling water and the boost relief valve on the first air input pipe, going from the turbo to the intercooler , there are some small plastic filters there, check for blocking and possible reverse mounting) >Does anybody know what effect disconnecting the Oxy sensor will have on >power/economy?? The OXY sensor is part of a closed loop system that keeps your engine working properly at revs from idle to 2500/3000. DO NOT REMOVE it for you may end up with improper engine operation resulting to higher gas consumption or worse starvation and at extremes engine destruction. >From: "Miceli, Fred (Contractor)" >Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 06:41:09 -0500 >Subject: New to this list > >I'm new to the list and I'm looking to buy a MR2 Turbo and I have a few >questions. > >1) Did the 91 or 92's have an LSD as an option? NO >2) Do most T-Tops leak on the 2nd gen MR2? NO >3) I saw an ad from A-Z systems advertising 375 HP @ 16.2 psi.....How >realistic is that? When I called them, they said that this was using 92 >octane pump gas and lots of Greddy Upgrades/Parts, including an additional >injector and a larger turbo. Anybody know about this? It just seems so >exaggerated!!! YES it can be done but it is rather costly >Any thing I should especially look out for when buying a used 91-93 MR2? Have a mechanic you trust with you. A problem (known) can be handy for bargaining and can always be corrected afterwards. ___________ ________________ ________ __ ___/__ | / /__< /___ __ )___ __/ _____ \ __ | / / __ / __ __ |__ / ____/ / __ |/ / _ / _ /_/ / _ / /____/ _____/ /_/ /_____/ /_/ (Kostas G. D. Chryssos Ph.D.) 30,Ikarias str. Glyfada GR16675, Athens, Hellas Tel: xx-301 9628212, Fax: xx-301 9628539 ------------------------------ From: Frank Mowry Date: Fri, 19 Jan 96 07:12:32 EST Subject: EVC for sale Hello MR2 owners. I figured I'd post this on both the Talon digest and MR2 digest since some of your members might be interested. HKS EVC: old style, hi/low/man with manual dial on front. $350 I had it installed in my '90 Eclipse GSX. I recently replaced it with a bleeder style boost controller. Need the extra cash for a new exhaust. Please respond directly to Frank Mowry fmowry@ngs.noaa.gov ------------------------------ From: Steven Lau Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 08:59:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: Mk I fuel filter Hi all, Anyone knows the location of the fuel filter in a MkI and how often it needs to be changed? By the way, I am thinking about to replace the stock exhaust on my 87NA with a HKS or a TRUST brand. Anyone knows if there is a significant improvement in the acceleration? About how much would it costs? How about the labor? Thanks. - --SL ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!CybrRacn54 Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 12:48:06 -0500 Subject: accident In a message dated 96-01-18 22:30:44 EST, you write: >Well, I did it. I screwed up big time last night and had an accident in the >Toyota. I was driving back from my parents house last night about 10pm >after it had drizzled enough to coat the streets with a nice, slick sheet of >water and oil. I was driving about 45 mph and came across an intersection >that had a dip on the other side. As I crossed the intersection, the >suspension slightly release and when it recompressed, the tires lost >traction and I started spinning. I spun to the other side of the street and >hit the curb sideways. I then went right up the gidewire and back into the >telephone pole and then flying in the air about 30ft before landing on the >rear section of the car. That's right, I was trying to fly without a >propeller. I spend most of the rest of the night in >the hospital and finally made it hime about 1 am. I had to get my work id >out of the car so I got to look and see what had happened. The entire trunk >is pushed up and you can see the mangled suspension parts underneath. The >front right side suspension has been ripped out from the car. I will be >going back to look at the car with a camera and getting my stuff out of the >car on Friday or Saturday. Kind of a crappy way to start out the year. Sorry to hear about that Shawn. As long as you still could still walk away, you didn't lose out that much. The MR2 can be replaced..... BTW.... did the airbag deploy? Gerald San Agustin 88 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!CybrRacn54 Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 12:48:05 -0500 Subject: 375 Hp In a message dated 96-01-18 22:30:44 EST, you write: >I plan on upgrading it also....What is the maximum HP potential using 93 >octane gas without NOS or any internal engine mods? I've seen two fast ones >in Turbo magazine....A to Z Systems in TX advertises 375 HP & 16.2 psi with >Greddy upgrades, including a turbo.....Is this possible??? It seems WAY >exaggerated...I don't think the engine could handle it!! I know it sounds impossible, but take a look at Kali Nahaku's MR2 in the January 96 Issue of Turbo Magazine. Seems like as long as enough fuel is provided and thermal stress (intercooler) is lowered, those horsepower numbers are attainable. BTW, his MR2 has no internal mods. As far as the ad for 375hp AT 16.2 psi..... I think that's impossible. Kali boosted 20 psi to achieve his horsepower (just about 380 BHP). Someone posted before that they called A to Z and found out that they were using a 75 shot of nitrous. I could be wrong, anyone else call them yet? Gerald San Agustin 88 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!CybrRacn54 Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 12:48:02 -0500 Subject: TVVC In a message dated 96-01-18 22:30:44 EST, you write: > I recently installed a >Greddy Airinx filtercharger, exhaust and boost guage. I noticed that stock >max boost was about .5 bars, after the two mods, max boost went up to about >.7 bars. My question is this: > >My next mod was to add the Greddy TVVC so I could crank up the boost :) > >But.... After I installed it and turned it all the way down, it would crank >up over the max allowed by the fuel cut :( - so as you can imagine..... >just as I'm about to say bye bye to a corvette ( or any other american would >be sports car ) *bang* brick wall >no boost allowed until I shut the car off for a few seconds and let the >computer reset. >by just adding this TVVC is that causing enough restriction to do this?? Can >I lower the amount of restriction by shortening the hoses connecting the >compressor housing to the TVVC and the TVVC to the waste gate actuator?? >HELP!!! I know this sounds like one of those questions like "is it plugged in" but are you sure you're turning the knob the correct direction? Sounds like when you 'turned it all the way down' , you actually turned it all the way up. Usually, when a pneumatic boost controller is used, closing the valve all the way causes boost to lower to its minimum since all pressure is getting to the wastegate and not being bled off. Whenever an error occurs, like overboost cutoff, the ecu likes to wait till things settle down. It thinks there's a mechnical problem so it waits till the motor is shut off and looked over. Also, I don't know where you mounted the control unit, but try and install it as close as possible to the wastegate and turbo. Mounting it in the dash may offer instant adjustability, but hoses that long will cause some boost spikes and maybe boost creep since control is based on how much air, and at what rate, can get to the wastegate. Gerald San Agustin 88 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V1 #90