mr2-digest Wednesday, 17 January 1996 Volume 01 : Number 088 MR2 Forsale Clean that Engine. re: frozen parking brake Antennas fuel control Antennas Drivetrain Clunk Hella headlights Re: mr2-digest V1 #84 Re: '91 MKII in Cleveland Hella Lights cool stock stereo trick!! Re: MRJ, Do It! (or not to do it?) Re: SW20 and Corrosion. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: uunet!ti.com!ckauffman (Chris Kauffman) Date: Mon, 15 Jan 96 11:35:09 CST Subject: MR2 Forsale I want to sell my MR2. If you guys know of anyone looking for a clean '91 na, tell them to e-mail or call me at the addresses below. By the way, I'm in Dallas, Texas. 1991 MR2 na 61k miles white 5 spd maintenance records t-tops cd pw/pl k&n air filter redline transaxle oil garage kept the last 30k miles Chris Kauffman KAU ckauffman@ti.com 214-575-2150 214-597-5192 ------------------------------ From: uunet!ix.netcom.com!nazgul (Roderick Mielo ) Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 17:44:12 -0800 Subject: Clean that Engine. I would like to power wash the engine in our 92' Turbo. What items do you folks suggest covering up to keep the wash out? (In the ol' days we covered the carb intake and distributor). Thanks for the expert tips here in the digest ! - -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Roderick Mielo, alias: nazgul@ix.netcom.com From Castle Rock's "Wolf Shire" Ranch zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ------------------------------ From: uunet!harvey.carol.net!bob (Robert Rogers) Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 22:09:25 -0500 Subject: re: frozen parking brake FWIW: the car talk guys (on npr) report that if your rings are worn and you park on a hill with the car in gear with the brake off, your car may roll down the hill because you are relying on engine compression to keep the car put. 93NA 57,000 miles bob rogers bob@carol.net ------------------------------ From: uunet!arthor.cais.com!scott_maclean (Scott Maclean) Date: 15 Jan 1996 6:00 EST Subject: Antennas Reply-To: scott_maclean@arthor.cais.com (Scott Maclean) >> If the antenna in the windshield is a "diversity antenna", where did >> you find this information? > > The owner's manual mentions that the antenna is a "diversity" system. > What that is and how it works is from an article in Radio Electronics > (now called Electronics Now) magazine. Diversity antennas are really quite simple. Because of the nature of FM signals, you can have one antenna a few feet away from another, where one has a good signal, and another is in a "null" and has little signal. This is especially prevalent in FM multipath, where single-antenna systems will fade in and out rapidly depending on the speed of the car. In a diversity antenna system, the radio simply quickly selects the antenna which has the better signal. >> ... but where is the AM antenna? > I believe that the AM radio runs off of the rear (main) antenna. In > cars with a single antenna, the AM and FM both work off of the same > antenna. Correct. AM antennas are always the rod antennas. Scott MacLean CASMEL-I Artificial Horizons BBS arthor@cais.com Aviation! (301) 417-9341 http://www.cais.com/arthor/www/index.html 300-33,600 bps V.FC/V.34+ * Free Access * Aviation Files * Usenet Newsgroups * CD-ROMs Online * ** Via PMail 2.3h Reg#658976 ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!CybrRacn54 Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 23:38:34 -0500 Subject: fuel control In a message dated 96-01-15 20:18:03 EST, you write: >>. However, if you look closely at the wastegate-actuator you can see >>TWO pressure-taps on the canister. One to the turbo compressor-housing, >>while the other disappears under the maze of intake plumbing. Where does >>it go? To the Turbo charging Pressure VSV (TP-VSV). >> The TP-VSV is an electronic valve (which opens when 10V+ to 14V+ is >>applied across its terminals) that, when open, diverts air from the >>wastegate actuator back upstream of the turbo compressor. Thus when open, >>the VSV bleeds off some of the pressure that otherwise would have opened >>the wastegate. > >I must check sometime this but are you sure that this second pressure tap on >the canister is internally related to the first one. Why run a second tap if >so and not use a T on the feed line? I think this second tap runs in a >chamber counteracting the first tap. When boost is present in the second tap >it counter balances the boost in the first tap and the wastegate remains >closed...boost being built up. I think this is to make sure that the >wastgate will not open gradually from a much lower level but abruptly at the >pre-fixed value of 0.8 BAR where the pressure on the second tap is instantly >removed by function of the VSV valve >. I think this theory makes much more sense. > >Also HKS requires removal of the VSV to wastegate second tap connection >since their system will control the wastegate in a short of ON-OFF operation >without any gradual...progressive... way at the pre-determined levels the >control unit is adjusted to. >- ------------------------------------- >> Here's the way I think it works: When the ECU senses really high boost, >>it kicks the voltage up on the fuel-pump. The fuel-map is open-loop at this >>point, and the ECU is just DUMPING fuel into the intake runners. Why the >>extra fuel? Again, Toyota's protective nature. They know 17.5+ psi of boost >>on 91-octane pump-gas will blow a 3S-GTE unless it is run WAY rich. > >One has to take into consideration that the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR has a >tap on its top that connects to the plenum. Through this tap the fuel >pressure is adjusted to the rail in relation to the boost. The ECU will only >control the duration the injectors are switched on-off but that is not >enough at higher boost. So the increased boost means increased fuel pressure >by which for a max on time of the injectors, more fuel is provided. The pump >receives a voltage boost by removal of the in series limiting resistors to >keep the fuel system pressure at a higher level to supply the increased fuel >demand.... that is the input fuel pressure to the regulator must stay at a >higher level to sustain coverage of the fuel demand without fuel pressure >drop which could lead to a lean supply...very bad at high boost levels. > >It is very interesting to note that the stock turbo at least on my 91 model >will NOT produce more than 1.2 BAR of boost at normal ambient temperatures >which is a situation that the engine can handle. Without a FCD though this >boost will activate fuel cut off. The FCD all it does is follow the PIM >voltage into the ECU up to the point where the ECU would activate fuel cut >off and just prior to this voltage level will limit the PIM voltage which at >further boost would keep rising, to this level so as NOT to activate the >fuel cut off at the ECU. I think that long before this happens, the >determination of the fuel input to the engine is being controlled by the >fuel pressure regulator through its connection to the plenum (boost >conditions) than by the ECU via injector time control. > > the ECU has no control of either fuel pump voltage or fuel pressure. Pump voltage is a constant 14.4 v regardless of load or rpm. let me explain what a fuel pressure regulator does. It is there to regulate the pressure differential between manifold vacuum/pressure versus fuel rail pressure. It's constantly regulating approximately 36 psi difference between fuel and manifold pressure. For example, let's say the engine is off. Manifold pressure is barometric, allowing the regulator to keep that constant 36psi. Now if vacuum is present, let's say 20InHg, fuel pressure would have to be decreased, since that vacuum is actually helping in drawing the fuel out. Now on the other perspective, let's say you're running an 36 psi of boost. If the regulator wasn't there, there would be no fuel flow (pressure differential would be 0). To maintain that 36psi, fuel pressure is raised linearly at 1 psi of fuel to 1 psi of manifold pressure, somewhere near 72 psi of fuel pressure. Now the injector will be firing at 36 psi. The only time when fuel pressure is raised to actually change the fuel ratio is when an aftermarket FMU style regulator is used (ie Cartech, Vortech). These regulators are adjustable for rate of fuel pressure rise in relation to manifold pressure. As far as wastegate control, the ecu only has controlof the VSV. if that VSV is removed, the wastegate will boost 6 psi all day. There is no way to lower that boost any lower than that. When the VSV is bleeding the necessary pressure to the wastegate is the only time you will see 10.5 psi. BTW, the factory boost gauge is USELESS for monitoring any change in boost. Gerald San Agustin 88 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. ------------------------------ From: uunet!arthor.cais.com!scott_maclean (Scott Maclean) Date: 15 Jan 1996 6:00 EST Subject: Antennas Reply-To: scott_maclean@arthor.cais.com (Scott Maclean) >> If the antenna in the windshield is a "diversity antenna", where did >> you find this information? > > The owner's manual mentions that the antenna is a "diversity" system. > What that is and how it works is from an article in Radio Electronics > (now called Electronics Now) magazine. Diversity antennas are really quite simple. Because of the nature of FM signals, you can have one antenna a few feet away from another, where one has a good signal, and another is in a "null" and has little signal. This is especially prevalent in FM multipath, where single-antenna systems will fade in and out rapidly depending on the speed of the car. In a diversity antenna system, the radio simply quickly selects the antenna which has the better signal. >> ... but where is the AM antenna? > I believe that the AM radio runs off of the rear (main) antenna. In > cars with a single antenna, the AM and FM both work off of the same > antenna. Correct. AM antennas are always the rod antennas. Scott MacLean CASMEL-I Artificial Horizons BBS arthor@cais.com Aviation! (301) 417-9341 http://www.cais.com/arthor/www/index.html 300-33,600 bps V.FC/V.34+ * Free Access * Aviation Files * Usenet Newsgroups * CD-ROMs Online * ** Via PMail 2.3h Reg#658976 ------------------------------ From: uunet!real.com.au!grantc (Grant Cunningham) Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 19:19:06 +1000 Subject: Drivetrain Clunk Hi all, I still have a Clunking noise and feel coming from my differential or gearbox. I posted a note about a month ago for advise and got some good ideas but none checked out. The car is still drivable but the problem is driving me mad. Everytime I take off, or come on or off the accelerator in gear there is a clunk noise and feel. Feels like a shaft is moving within a sleeve or gear. It is NOT the engine mounts, all suspension parts are tight, heat shields are tight etc. Anyone had something similar or anymore ideas for me to check out. My next step is to have the gearbox pulled out and checked and hopefully fixed but this could cost $1000 - $1500 Regards Grant Cunningham (Australia) 91 Red NA 100 000km (63 000miles) ------------------------------ From: Adam Grove Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 14:45:45 -0500 Subject: Hella headlights - --Kerry Wood writes: > Just installed Hella semisealed headlight upgrades in '93 T > urbo. Ordered from > John Broderick @ Mr.2 Performance Products w/ HB2 100/55W replacement la > mps. > > WHAT A DIFFERENCE-I CAN SEE!!! For those of you who still can't see or n Are you sure these HB2 are 100/55W? I installed Hella "Vision Plus" units in my MkI with HB2's that are 60/55; I just called Hella and they say I need to use an H4 to get 100W. For what it's worth, my experience was very different. My (subjective) opinion is that the new lights on my car are no better than the ones I replaced. I'm undecided as to whether they are as bad as stock, or whether they are actually worse. (Is that even possible?) Has anyone had any success with better lights on a MkI? How powerful can I go without modifying the wiring? (I should say that I'm concerned about low beams as much high beams.) -Adam ------------------------------ From: GTi TwinTurbo Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 16:11:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #84 unsuscribe alutfeal@acad.bryant.edu ------------------------------ From: "Mark A. Shehan" Date: 16 Jan 96 21:30:37 EST Subject: Re: '91 MKII in Cleveland Michael- My experience with '91 MKII corrosion resistance has been very good. This is the 6th Michigan winter for my '91 turbo (147 K miles) and it has no rust what-so-ever. I do wash the car weekly year-round however, especially after significant snow storms (as Michigan DOT uses a LOT of salt on the roads). I have noticed that a lot of the threaded fasteners on the bottom side of the car now have noticeable corrosion, which makes part swaps a little more difficult. Cleaning the corrosion from the threads of exposed bolts tends to aid their removal. Removing plastic "undercovers" is another story however. I've succeeded in breaking off approx 1/2 of the 10 mm fasteners that hold them on at one time or another. I would recommend using an anti-sieze compound on any fasteners that might be exposed to the environment. Please send me additional info on your car (options, mileage, how much your asking, etc...). I know of someone here in Michigan that might be interested in purchasing your car. Thanks. Mark Shehan ------------------------------ From: Mark Sink Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 17:43:46 -0500 Subject: Hella Lights Kerry Wood, I have had Hella's for some time now, but I don't have 55/100's in them. Notice how direct the lighting is, shining on object on front of you you can see a clear cut horizontal beam, which leads to my next point. I have a stiff TRD suspension, so my car bobs up and down a bit It's an '87. With these lights, people tell me they think I am flashing my high beams at them. This is because the light is very direct, it stays low, and doesnt spread much. Once that beam travels up and hits up high behind a car, the difference is dramatic, to the point they think you are flashing them. With your 55w's it will be even greater, and when you get your tokico's.. even more so. You'll just be bobbing and flashing behind people. You'll love it, people crusing in the left lane might actually get out of your way now. Anyway, I'm glad you got the lights. I love how direct the lighting is, maybe I should get some 55/100's?? Mark ------------------------------ From: uunet!harvey.carol.net!bob (Robert Rogers) Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 21:58:44 -0500 Subject: cool stock stereo trick!! after determining that the little speakers in the pilar behind the seat are responsible for blaring upper-mid-range at louder volumes (esp. with windows down or roof off), i disconected them. then i came up with a new use: expanding the sound stage. here's how it works (i think): give some -R sound to the L rear speaker, likewise for the other side. your L ear takes the -R and combines it with the R (from the door and tweeter on the R side). your brain then repositions the sound source further to the right (outside of the car!!). this is a simple mod: hook up the + terminals (red wires) to the + amplifier wire (just like it came from the factory) hook the two - terminals (the black wires) to each other with a 6 foot piece of speaker wire. that's all. the effect is minimal in the car. you can do the same thing with an extra pair of speakers for your home stereo (right to the outside of the originals). (you may need to use an l-pad to reduce the volume there). if anyone wants complete details, email me. 93NA 57,000miles bob rogers bob@carol.net ------------------------------ From: Mark Sink Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 01:24:40 -0500 Subject: Re: MRJ, Do It! (or not to do it?) aly abulkheir wrote: > > Dear All, > > Does anyone have any email addresses or regular addresses we can all > write to to urge Toyota to build the MRJ? Let's try not to let this one get > away like the Sera did. > > Thanks, > > Aly, '85 MR2, Red with all options OK.. at first I was going to fire off an e-mail expressing my displeasure with the MRJ, but I sat back and thought to myself.."No, let me at least look into it as much as I did the Mazda RX-01, and then I will come back and comment on the MRJ" My initial impressions of the car before doing my last bit of research were bad, basically I had looked at the car, and wrote it off, after my last bit of reading, I really think this car is well.. it disgusts me! We all joke about how the DelSol is an MR2 wanna-be, I feel the MRJ is a DelSol wanna be, pretty bad huh? As far as sports cars go, it's definitely a step back, maybe 2 or 3. I would take my '87 MR2 over the MR2, I would take a Miata over it, certainly an MKII over it, and maybe a DelSol V-TEC over it, and I DONT like DelSol.. What I dont like about the MRJ: o It's totally BUTT UGLY, it's grose! o It has 2 DIGITAL monitors in the dash (this is a SPORTS car?) o It has rear wheel steering! Umm.. NO THANKS.. racers of 300ZX's with 4 wheel HICA steering had to disable this "option" because the car did not behave the way a race car should. The driver wants control! I don't want my back end doing something I dont know about. o It's Ugly! Did I mention that? Questions I still have: o How much does it weigh? o How much HP out of that 1.8l 20V? They'll do good to get 170HP. The 2.0 in the MR2 makes a measly 135 HP, I know it's not the same engine, but Toyota hasn't shown any HO small displacement engines yet like the V-TEC's from Honda. o Is it front or rear wheel drive? o What does the J in MRJ stand for? JOKE? "...'em are joke! (MRJ)" In summary.. if the car, as it stands now, were built, it would appeal to chic's. To me, it's a 'chic car' along with the Geo Storm, VW Cabriolet, etc.. Almost a Paseo with the engine in the middle, and some extra gadgets we don't want.. This is not a sports car, in fact, I don't know what it is. Looks to me like it's trying to please everyone, and in effect will please no one, or very few. I can't picture this little pansie mobile at the autocross or drag strip. OK.. I know I was rough, and Maybe I'm just upset that it might be our replacement for an MR2, who wouldnt be? I've read all I can on the RX-01, and it is a much better sports car. THAT'S the car I hope gets built. It may be the only real fun car around.. have to wait and see what Acura does with their mid-engined car. Mark Sink Oh.. and no, I dont have an address for you to write to, but I would give it to you if I did. ------------------------------ From: uunet!zeta.org.au!embee (Mark Bosma) Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 21:12:19 +1100 Subject: Re: SW20 and Corrosion. >Subject: Re: SW20 > >As far as I know, the SW20 designation applies to the '91 - '92 >MR Turbo models (U.S.). > Hmmm. To add to the confusion, as far as I know, all of the current shape models are designated SW20, and all of the oldies are AW11s. At least, that's what applies in Australia. Way to check? Lift the front hood and look at the Chassis number stamped on the firewall (funny name, depends what you carry in the fromt I guess). It will say something like JT763SW2..... for SW20s and JT2AW1... for the AW11. Doesn't apply elsewhere I hear you say? I brought an AW11 back from the USA, and it was an AW11. >Subject: Mk 2 corrosion > > ...One part of the decision is: when the >loan is up on the car in 9/97, will it be starting to rust and therefore >worth little? How good is the corrosion protection on these cars? There >certainly isn't a trace of corrosion now. I sort of feel guilty exposing >such a nice car to salt, especially since it cannot be replaced with a new >model. > I bought an 85 NA (yeah, an AW11) in Dayton OH in 1990. It had lived in the snow and salt all its life.. the previous owner drove it all year round, and so did I. In 91 I made the decision to bring it back to Australia, based on its condition -- not to mention the sky-high price for them here, and of course because it was such a scream to drive :-) The car had absolutely no body rust, and just minor surface rust underneath... apart from one problem undoing the bolts holding the muffler, I never had any problems with corrosion. The car had been Zbarted (I think that's the spelling), but I don't know if that explains the lack of cancer. When I sold it last year (boo hoo), not a spot of rust. Hope that helps. mb. ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V1 #88