mr2-digest Wednesday, 10 January 1996 Volume 01 : Number 084 Turbo pressure sensor Frozen parking brake RE: Power antenna operation RE: 4th Gear Boost wet plug FCD Adjustment TEC Cooler rheostat and radio "diversity antenna" Re: Thermoelectric Intercooler SC motors Lights behind the Climate Control Panel Re: mr2-digest V1 #83 Re: mr2-digest V1 #83 Re: Restoring wheels. Re: Gauges and rheostat Re: K&N Confusion ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: uunet!diane.csg.mot.com!mikep (Mike Pittelkow) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 16:19:41 -0600 Subject: Turbo pressure sensor Has anyone tried disconnecting the turbo pressure sensor harness from the sensor and driving to see if boost controlled fuel cut still happens? Any other side effects (besides the dash gauge not working)? Hey Cal, any ideas? - -mike ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!LUKYDUCK Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 19:45:32 -0500 Subject: Frozen parking brake I own a '91 Turbo and have recently had the parking brake lock/freeze in the on position. I remember a while back that somebody wrote in having this problem. If anyone remembers who wrote the previous letter please Email me with any info on how to stop it from happening if you have any, or the email address of the person who wrote the letter. Thanks, LukyDuck '91 Turbo Lic. 1FASTOY Email: LukyDuck@aol.com ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!LUKYDUCK Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 19:47:20 -0500 Subject: RE: Power antenna operation Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents. I own a 1991 Turbo and my antenna only goes up if you turn on the radio and will only go down if you turn off the radio. It will not go up if you only turn on the cd/tape player. LukyDuck Lic. 1FASTOY '91 Turbo Email: LukyDuck@aol.com ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!LUKYDUCK Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 19:45:32 -0500 Subject: RE: 4th Gear Boost I own a 91 Turbo and I can get full boost while in fourth gear. I don't see why you wouldn't. I also don't think the computer will limit the amount. I think you ought to be getting full boost. Also, you mention about the oil coming out of the tubing area. I have had the same thing happen to me. You can stop it from coming out of the line by tightening the clamps. Depending on how much air is leaking out when you have positive pressure, might cause you to have a lower boost pressure. I have noticed that any time I have had the air lines removed and reinstalled, I have had to retighten these lines when the oil starts coming out. Several experienced engine mech's have told me that some oil leakage from a turbo bearings will occur as the turbo gets older. As long as your engine is not using an excessive amount of oil, I wouldn't worry about it. Also remember that a little amount of oil can attract a lot of dirt and look worse than it really is. LukyDuck '91 Turbo Lic. 1FASTOY Email: LukyDuck@aol.com ------------------------------ From: uunet!netrunner.net!hkphoto (howard kuflik) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 19:59:20 -0500 Subject: wet plug Well it's me again with the project car from hell....this time I have cylinder that seems to not fire at idle. I replaced the wire's, plugs, cap, rotor and the plug is still soaked with gas .But at high RPM's it seem to fire but the engine seem to lack power.....all the other plugs seem fine.It seem weird since the entire motor has been rebuilt 350 miles ago. My question is could the fuel injecter be bad by pouring or leaking fuel in the cylinder??? Thanks Howard 1986 MR-2 n/a ------------------------------ From: uunet!bendnet.com!jdshort (John & Diana Short) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 18:40:44 -0800 Subject: FCD Adjustment My FCD came labled RX-7. When we called the factory, they had us change the setting from 7 to 8 for the MR2. Thats all I know. Happy Notes from the Short Family Frog Farm! 93T ------------------------------ From: uunet!bendnet.com!jdshort (John & Diana Short) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 18:40:40 -0800 Subject: TEC Cooler I've played with the thermo-electric coolers some. Pretty fun. But as for increasing horsepower, remember the power it takes to run those things. You never get something for nothing. Before spending $500 putting a bunch of heatsinks and a 12V to 5V converter in to run the TEC, someone on here should be able to help. Calculation #1 How much cooling is desired, ie number of calories or ? required to lower air temperature desired amount (30 degrees) at a reasonable flow (500 cfm???). Calculation #2 How many TECs would be needed, including thermal resistance of mounting to heatsinks, to accomplish that cooling. Calculation #3 How much power, including alternator inefficiency, does it take to run these. Calculation #4 How much power would the engine gain through this cooling (I think this number has been on here thanks to Marc Summers). I suspect you'll find the project takes 10 horsepower to produce 5. Marc Summers achieved a 25 degree intake air temp by simply adding a cooling fan to the intercooler, a much simpler, cheaper and obviously effective method. See mr2 page for his instructions for installation as he is quite thorough. Happy Notes from the Short Family Frog Farm! 93T ------------------------------ From: uunet!harvey.carol.net!bob (Robert Rogers) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 00:35:00 -0500 Subject: rheostat and radio i like to drive with gauge lights dim because of my vision, but the cassette-ETR display dims quicker than the gauges, so i can't tell what frequency i'm tuned to! (i travel a lot at night and i "channel surf"). does anyone have a not too complicated fix? maybe a resistor between the radio input and the radio +12V (ground??) and a switch (day/night). thanks for help. 93NA 56,000 miles bob rogers bob@carol.net ------------------------------ From: uunet!harvey.carol.net!bob (Robert Rogers) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 00:34:54 -0500 Subject: "diversity antenna" a diversity antenna might explain why the toyota radio in my car receives a problem station better than the toyota radio in my bathroom (or the nakamichi in my living room for that matter). the station in question gets bleed from a new translator on an adjacent frequency. bob rogers bob@carol.net ------------------------------ From: uunet!sitka.triumf.ca!solu (Richard Soluk) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 22:25:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Thermoelectric Intercooler > > From: uunet!aol.com!AstonMrtn > Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 00:34:22 -0500 > Subject: RE: Thermoelectric Intercooler > > A while back, I posted some questions about cooling intake air...I was > worried about cooling it TOO much and causing icing in the throttle body. At > the time, I didn't want to mention HOW I was going to cool the air, as I was > planning on applying for a patent on the idea...but hey, it turns out someone > has beaten me to it! US Patent #5,385,020 describes what is basically a > thermoelectric intercooler (in more broader terms, though). > A very interesting idea, I think the following questions would need to be answered to make it work: - The air flow volume and speed are very high through the intake, and air is not a good thermal conductor. Therefore you are going to have to cool something roughly the size and design of a conventional intercooler. To get a significant advantage over a regular intercooler, you will need to cool this mass well below ambient air temperature. There are thermoelectric devices that will cool below 0C, but I don't know how much they cost or how pratical they are. Also if your intercooler is below freezing you run the risk of it icing up. - The cooling ability of the thermoelectric devices will be limited by how well you can heat sink them. Can you provide enough cooling for the devices themselves? And if powerful fans are needed for these heatsinks how would that compare to using the fans directly on an air-to-air intercooler? (although the air-to-air intercooler is limited by outside air temperature). - Finally, these devices will draw power from the engine via the alternator. Do you get a net power gain from using them? Can anyone answer these? ...Richard ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!CybrRacn54 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 02:43:40 -0500 Subject: SC motors In a message dated 96-01-09 18:42:28 EST, you write: >PPS. I've just had someone tell me that there are two diff sorts of SCed >engines and the main way to tell is that one has only one coil .. and the >other has four coils (and more HP). Anyone heard of this? Or is this just >for the japanese market? (in which case I can get one ... hehehehehe, nah >nah ni nah nah!!! : P~~~ .. living in a little country has to have it's >advantages! : ) the US spec motors use a traditional single coil with a distributor. The Japanese spec 4AGZE use 2 coils in a direct fire setup. Each coil fires 2 plugs at the same time. by the way, you don't have to be in Japan to have Japanese products. The shop I work for part time has connections with motor importers and they have several Japanese spec motors!! This includes everything from 4AGZE (with all the direct fire features) to hardly seen in the states motors, like the 1GGTE, 3TGTE, 4TGTE, 6MGE, and the infamous 503E (2.1 liter 1400 BHP IMSA motor , sells for $25,000). I've already assisted in several of the tranplants of these engines (except for the 503E, nobody can afford one but Rod Millan!!). Gerald San Agustin 88 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. ------------------------------ From: John Ho Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 06:43:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: Lights behind the Climate Control Panel Question: Does anyone know how much the climate control panel is for a '86 MR2? (The panel with the little figures of people) Seems the parts dealer told me that it's not just a simple bulb that lights up the panel, but some kind of fiber optic mechanism. Also, I was wondering if, the knobs on the instrument panel that controls the headlights and windshield wipers, do they light up as well? I bought the car used, and almost every light on the console doesn't work. Most Appreciated, John ------------------------------ From: "Kostas G. D. Chryssos " Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 16:03:34 +0200 Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #83 18:04:15 GMT >Subject: AW11 and SW20 info > >Could anyone please clarify a few points for me... > The SW20 is the MKII Turbo version versus SW21 which is the NA one >****************************************** > >If the antenna in the windshield is a "diversity antenna", where did you find >this information? The radio...now depends which radio you have... operates with two antenna inputs that operate for FM together and the radio will pick the best signal from the two. Now for AM I am not very sure, there is a reduction of input signal strength if you do not extend the antenna but the radio seems to get enough signal in. The drivers manual mentions the two antenna configuration clearly. >Having recently removed and completely torn appart my 3-in-1 deck in an >effort to reset the security code (I wasn't able to), I did not see anything >inside the case that would qualify as an AM coil antenna. I have NOT gotten so deep in. Anyhow I have removed the stock radio in favor of a Pioneer 2DIN unit but you reminded me to check where i have lofged the security code...!!!!! > >The aftermarket boost gauge has the following wires and requirements: > > black - common ground > red - 12v regardless of the ignition (for electronics) > white - 12v when ignition is on (for backlight) OK it is simple. Leave the common ground connected for the electronics to operate. Get yourself those tini bulbs with two wires in the back. Connect those wires to the stock system for backlighting making sure NON touches ground. Throw away the stock instrument lampholders and lamps. this is what I did with the HKS instruments mounted in the ashtray location. The only problem is that the boost meter and the ET meter have dif lengths of the lamp tunels and one instrument lights up brighter than the other... ___________ ________________ ________ __ ___/__ | / /__< /___ __ )___ __/ _____ \ __ | / / __ / __ __ |__ / ____/ / __ |/ / _ / _ /_/ / _ / /____/ _____/ /_/ /_____/ /_/ (Kostas G. D. Chryssos Ph.D.) 30,Ikarias str. Glyfada GR16675, Athens, Hellas Tel: xx-301 9628212, Fax: xx-301 9628539 ------------------------------ From: uunet!ritvax.isc.rit.edu!EMS8110 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 11:06:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: mr2-digest V1 #83 >Subject: Oxy sensor? >Ok, I've been following all this idling stuff with interest. They are seem >to be with warm idling. Well, this morning I jumped into my car (I haven't >used it for about 3 days) and started it and it was ok. I reversed around >the side of the house and stopped in the drive and took my foot off the >accelerator and it just dropped it's revs until it stalled. I found this >most interesting! ; ) (groan! ) .. anyway, I started it again and kept my >foot well away from the accelerator and it just did the same ... started and >then slowly dropped the revs and stalled. One time it almost managed to >catch itself and keep going. >So, is this the oxy sensor? After work I'm gonna find some wire and see >what the computer says. Well, it sound like you're out of gas :-) It also souns a lot like a broken timing belt :-( Oxy sensor is in the exhaust manifols, just before it connects to a flexer pipe. It looks like a big spark plug. It is directly under the car. But I severely doubt that what you're describing is the oxy sensor. Let us know. Mike.S ------------------------------ From: uunet!sirius.UVic.CA!fgibbins (Frank Gibbins) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 09:37:05 PST Subject: Re: Restoring wheels. >Short of repainting the centers, what's the best way to clean stubborn brake >dust and grime off the wire-like 'spokes'? I realize that I still have to >remove all the soot before I paint them anyway.... I've tried soap, a >commercial spray-on wheel cleaner, kerosene, K&N filter cleaner/solvent (!)... >The dirt just won't budge... I can get some off... but not all. John, I used to have to clean the wire wheels on my father's Oldsmobile (no pun intended) weekly as part of my chores when I was young. I found methods that worked better that the toothbrush/solvent deal that I started with. First, spray them with oven cleaner and let them sit for about 30-60 minutes. Then (providing they'll fit) put them in the dishwasher (when your wife's not around) on "scrubem til they die" cycle. This worked really well for me, but the wire bits were really only caps so they all fit in the washer in one load. by the sounds of it you have all the centres out now anyway. Give it a shot. Dishwashers are also really useful tools for cleaning other parts like valve covers. Even used one to clean some brake parts before I painted them! Frank Gibbins, University of Victoria. Victoria, B.C., Canada. BMOC...Biochemists and Microbiologists on Campus Toyota MR2s on the Internet... because on the Information Superhighway, you can drive as fast as you want. Try the MR2 Web Page at http://mr2.com. ------------------------------ From: "Christopher B Stell" Date: 10 Jan 1996 09:06:19 -0800 Subject: Re: Gauges and rheostat >Kip is working on an inverter circuit that could solve the problem. Basically >this will invert the voltage seen on one of the rheostat lines (0v for bright, >12v for dark) into what the aftermarket gauges want, 12v for bright, 0v for >dark.... Geoff, I understand your gauge situation a little better now. The gauge you're adding has some smarts. I see the need for your "inverter" circuit. The way that I would approach this problem is by adding a simple differential amplifier circuit. Look in any OP-AMP data book application notes, and you'll find the circuit for a Diff. Amp. (the simplest configuration is with one op-amp and four resistors). Be careful about which op-amp. you choose. You need to pick one that can operate from a single 12V supply and provide an output voltage swing that covers the supply range. You may have to add transistor to the output (in the emitter follower configuration) if the gauge lamp draws more current than the op-amp. can safely supply. Once you have the circuit built, connect the diff. amp."+" input to the +12V input of the gauge, connect the diff. amp. "-" input to the dimmer Rheostat. Connect the diff. amp output to the Gauge dimmer input. Connect the op-amp "+V" to the gauge +12V. Connect the op-amp "-V" to the gauge ground. I'll be glad to help you solve this, but if you think you have it covered, I'll return to lurk mode. Good Luck again. Christopher B. Stell 4800 Oak Grove Drive Member of Tech. Staff Pasadena, CA 91109 Power Electronics Group NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory ------------------------------ From: uunet!softy.softwords.bc.ca!geoff Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 13:49:18 PST Subject: Re: K&N Confusion Mike wrote: > For those of you interested, a K&N RU-1500 filter will fit > on the HKS powerflow adapter bracket for the MR2, and, > according to HKS will flow significantly more air. They've Thanks to Mike, I've currently running this setup and I noticed no difference in the performance of the K&N vs. the HKS foam filter, it seems to work great. Geoff '91t, 160,900km ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V1 #84