mr2-digest Friday, 15 December 1995 Volume 01 : Number 064 Non USA parts and Solo II stuff Headlights. Paint ??? Paint jobs Heal-toeing. Pre 93 Rear Suspension and Handling Leaky Roof cold starts? Net wisdom and an ongoing ugly noise... MKI for sale Front disc brake thickness (and question). mk1 wiper during snow storm FW: Mr2 guys driving schools Re: #53 Driving schools in Atlanta or Charlotte ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: uunet!aol.com!MattMR2 Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 01:25:49 -0500 Subject: Non USA parts and Solo II stuff I have an HKS exhaust for the second generation MR2. Good for Solo II racing. I also have Accessory catolog from Japan with all sorts of cool MR2 stuff. GPS, interior lamps, roof racks for T-Tops (can hold skis or a luggage carrier. Key blanks with MR2 enameled in red on head of the key. Yellow fog lamps that mount right into the exsisting front end hardware. Most of this stuff can be ordered through a local dealer "off-line". I'll give you the part numbers. I however do have a few ket blanks, rain deflectors for a non T-topped car and some other stuff. I can be reached at home at 203.454.4429 (pls before 9:00 pm eastern) or through AOL or Murray@GWNS.GROUPW.WEC.COM Matt Murray '93 MR2 turbo 7th 95 Nats 3rd 94 Nats ------------------------------ From: uunet!zeta.org.au!embee (Mark Bosma) Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 21:26:03 +1100 Subject: Headlights. David Cole asked: I have "semi-sealed beams". Did you just use your standard headlight shell, and put in a 80/100W halogen bulb? Dave: Yes I checked; the later models (after 9/90 in Australia) had semi-sealed beams standard fit. To lighten up you night driving, you just need to fit H4 Halogen globes. You message prompted me to check, which saved me from wasting heaps of $$ buying semi-sealed units; mine already had them (ta!). I've posted an article to Geoff's Web page detailing how to fit the things; when it appears I'll let you know where to look. Cheers, embee. ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!KipAnderso Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 01:45:53 -0500 Subject: Paint ??? Scott writes: >So, I have a couple of questions: > 1. Does anyone have any idea as to what I am going to have > pay to have it repainted? At least $500 for a half-decent job, but if you want something that will last and have a good finish, you'll probably end up spending around $1000 + depending on the type of paint. I remember reading something about catalyzed acrylic enamel being an excellent type of paint, but it costs $$$. - -snip- > 3. Should I keep it the original color (crimson red) or > should I think about a new color? Changing the color will add to the expense. To do it right, the car should be stripped and painted inside the door jams, trunk, engine bay, and the hood area. What's wrong with the red? I know. You red MR2 owners are jealous of us Solar Yellow MR2 owners for our ability to attract the cops :-) - -Kip 91 "Look at me! Ticket me!" Solar Yellow Turbo kipanderso@aol.com ------------------------------ From: uunet!melbpc.org.au!greta (Greta Young) Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 17:34:04 +1100 Subject: Paint jobs I am in two minds about your question of paint jobs. 1. I DONT like that crimson red so - Yes change the colour!!! 2. I don't know if the same thing happens in the States, but here in Australia, if you change the colour of a car it normally decreases it's resale value, I guess because it highlights the fact that it's been bingled. My other half has just added, if you change the colour make sure they do under the bonnet, engine bay (means taking out the engine - YUCK!) , boot, door jams... ANYWHERE you can see the old colour!! Good Luck, let us know your decision! Greta ------------------------------ From: uunet!zeta.org.au!embee (Mark Bosma) Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 21:45:02 +1100 Subject: Heal-toeing. Kendrick W asked: I have trouble toe-heeling in my 93T...I find it difficult to blip the gas while braking. Is there a special method to pratice this technique? if so, please share it. Kendrick: Some people like you and I just aren't built for this trick: in my case, I physically can't rotate my heal onto the gas pedal whilst on the brake with the ball of my foot. Lot's of advanced driving instructors have tried to help, but to no avail. Instead I have found that if I position my foot about 1cm (3/8inch in America) higher on the brake, I can roll my foot to the right and squeeze the gas with the part of my shoe that is just behind and above my little toe. Like all these things, it takes a bit of practice to keep everything on the rails, but the practice is worth it. An advanced driving course is the place to learn it first, before hitting the streets. After years of practice both on and off the track, I'm able to get it right about 50% of the time (the revs match perfectly as the clutch comes out, with just the right amount of braking). On the other 50% of my corners, I can feel a little lurch as I come off the clutch, which is what we are trying to avoid. I've found it's best to turn down the CD player though, that way you can hear (and in fact, feel from the engine's vibrations) what's going on, and when to allow the clutch to bite, to get things just right. Keep practicing. Cheers, embee. ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!KipAnderso Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 01:45:47 -0500 Subject: Pre 93 Rear Suspension and Handling >The '93 revised suspension reduced the tendency for the toe angle to change >on the rear - thus making the care more predictable. More 'tame' (less fun). > Well, if you KNOW what to expect, and know what to avoid, you can take >advantage of your '91 suspension. >(this is the situation as I know it, please correct me if I'm wrong). > >Just drive smart! Learn your car's limitations (by exceeding them in a safe >environment) and you'll be ok. Although the pre 93 MKIIs are initially a bit intimidating to push to the limits, I was reminded of just how quickly I've learned to compensate for the tail happiness of the car this morning. I was late for work and driving a little bit agressively during heavy rain, through traffic and around the corners. On one corner I overcooked my entrance speed a little bit. The back wheels started to step out. I _eased_ out of the gas a little and gave it a quick flick of opposite steering. The rear of the car smoothly stepped back in line. A potentially embarrasing situation prevented. The pre 93 MKIIs are not as bad as they might seem. Just check this years SOLO II Nationals results if you don't believe me. Not to the discredit of the obvious skill of the drivers, the stock pre 93 cars placed higher. Kip Anderson 91 MR2 turbo kipanderso@aol.com ------------------------------ From: "Marc L. Summers-SysAdmin" Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 4:22:44 PST Subject: Leaky Roof Kip says:Leaking is a way of life with T-tops. I wouldn't be to sure about that. I regularly wipe my T-top gaskets and side door gaskets with Wesleys Black Magic, and that keeps the rubber nice and supple. I am also very careful about how I replace the T-tops. Proper centering of the glass in the slot makes a big difference. This last month of November, and first part of December here in Oregon, we have had record rain, over 40 inches and still going, and I am happy to say that my T-tops have not leaked one drop. It is my experience that if you take care of your car it will take care of you, that is not to say that Curtis Brown is not taking care of his car, it may be that he just doesn't know some specifics. But that is why we are here to help him. I also, if necessary, put a thin layer of silicone gel on the rubber gaskets to improve the seal. This is the same silicone gel that is normally used to seal up ignitions. I also use it on my ignition system to keep the water out. If you have any specific questions on this issue, please ask. Thanks :^) - -- + ------------------------------------------------- + + +++ N E C +++ +++ A M E R I C A +++ + + ------------------------------------------------- + + Marc L. Summers System Administrator + + 3100 N.E. Shute Road Hillsboro Oregon 97124 + + PH: 1-503-681-3338 FAX: 1-503-681-3304 + + Email: marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com + + ---------- Sic transit gloria mundi. ------------ + + --- "Thus passes away the glory of the world." -- + + ------------------------------------------------- + ------------------------------ From: uunet!netrunner.net!hkphoto (howard kuflik) Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 08:49:47 -0500 Subject: cold starts? I have 86 MR-2 Mk-1 that will not idle at all when cold can someone E-me with Diagram of the cold start system if it available? or tell me the sequience to check to find the problem. After it is warm it run great... Thanks Howard ------------------------------ From: uunet!diane.csg.mot.com!mikep (Mike Pittelkow) Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 08:13:41 -0600 Subject: Net wisdom and an ongoing ugly noise... For quite a while, I've have a bizzare noise occasionaly when starting the car warm (whether it's warm or cold outside seems to have little, if anything, to do with it) Just as it starts to run, a loud -whoosh- sound that starts quite loud and then fades in volume over 5 seconds or so until it's gone. sounds like it's coming from everywhere, not from any specific location in the car. (yes, the stereo is off.... :) ) My only guesses so far are: some sort of bearing noise from the fuel pump? Air in something? I realyl have no idea. Power steering pressure coming up maybe? The car goes in late next week to get it's drivers side door lock fixed (that's three times now I've been locked in!) And to have it's left rear corner suspension inspected (I've been getting a strange flunk out of what sounds like the strut tower - bad strut maybe? Stabilizer bar squeaking on that side only? dunno....) And I'd like them to look at this other noise at the same time, so any ideas are welcome in fairly short order. No, this one's not the ABS module. It's also not the A/C/heater fan, because it's off. Well, anyway, any ideas would be much appreciated. - -mike +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | mikep@diane.csg.mot.com | Email to mr2_faq_request@diane.csg.mot.com | +--------------------------+ with subject "FAQ" for a copy of the most recent| |1993 MR2Turbo #223 FRINGE1| MR2 FAQ. Suggestions to mr2@diane.csg.mot.com | +--------------------------+-------------------------------------------------+ | MR2 on the Internet: Because there's no speed limit on the infobahn. | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Motorola Cordless, Libertyville, IL 60089 (w)708-523-8273 (h)708-520-3783 | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ ------------------------------ From: uunet!compuserve.com!71043.1023 Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 10:01:06 PST Subject: MKI for sale Two comments: 1) $7500 for a MKI with high mileage seems expensive. There is an '88 MKI with 70K miles and t-tops here in Alabama, for sale. My guess is $4500-$5000 US will buy it. No dings or dents and the paint (silver/grey) appears in good shape. If anyone is interested I will check it out further. 2) As a devoted MR2 freak (and coffee cup collector), are there any MR2 coffee cups lurking around out there? - ------------------------------------------------- George T. Hilliker '93T, T-Tops, 12K, Very Red E-Mail: 71043.1023@compuserve.com HomePage: www.goshen.net/DataCommGroupInc -Working for H+M- 12/15/95 10:01:06 - ------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ From: Itrat Khan Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 10:26:17 -0500 Subject: Front disc brake thickness (and question). > Can anybody give a figure as to the mimimum thickness the front brake disks > on a Mk1 can be machined to ? According to my '89 manual, the front discs minimum is 21.0 mm. Standard thickness is 22.0 mm. While we'r on the subject, I'm going to need to replace my rotors this summer (front pair for sure, probably the rears too). Has anyone tried any rotors other than stock Toyota parts on an MKI with any success? I don't know how much Brembo brake systems cost, but I was thinking about upgrading in that direction too. The car is at 100,000 kms and has only had the front brakes changed once (back at 60 or 70k). Since they've lasted so long, I thought I might put a littl money into the brakes this summer. Any suggestions? Itrat '89 SC - -- __________________________________________________________________________ Itrat Khan e-mail: khan@gaul.csd.uwo.ca 4th-year Computer Science London, Ontario University of Western Ontario "MR2 Forever..." ------------------------------ From: David Tong Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 11:49:09 -0500 Subject: mk1 wiper during snow storm Hi, I just did my first drive in a snow storm, we got 6-1/2 inches last night in Boston. The traction on my 89 MR2 was not bad at all, driving off from a stand still is much better than any of the fwd I had before. It is due to the weight on the drive wheels I guess. The car does have two problems with snow. One is if there is more than 3-4 inches of snow on the road my car gets lifted, this is because I have lowered springs. The other one bothers me the most, the space between the wind shield and the hood builds up snow very fast and it eventually stops the wiper to work, I think this is because the engine is not under the front hood so there is no heat to melt the snow in the front. I had to get out of my car and lift up the hood to clean out the snow. Do you have the same wiper problem with your MR2, any solution if there is one. Regards David Tong ------------------------------ From: Shawn Gordon Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 11:00:48 -1000 (HST) Subject: FW: Mr2 guys Message-ID: lch-02-msg951215170103MTP[01.51.00]0000009d-36560 I got quite a chuckle from this. It came from this RX7 Internet list. And yes, I own both a MR2 and RX7, but the RX7 is for sale. ; ) Later, Shawn shawng@microsoft.com 91 MR2 Turbo begin ---------- From: Wendell Yamada To: RX-7 Club Subject: Mr2 guys Date: Friday, December 15, 1995 5:38 Ok, Ted and I checked out the MR2 www page and its pretty impressive. They have a *really* nice set-up for their club users. In particular, check out this bozo's entry: http://mr2.com/OWNERS/StevenF.html I can gaurantee you that it'll make you sick. Oh yeah, they made custom license plate frames and special stickers. Better watch out. MR2 Happy Meals might be coming soon. - ----------------------------------------------- Wendell Yamada wyamada@ohana.com '87 Turbo II My Macintosh is 100% Microsoft free. end ------------------- ------------------------------ From: uunet!bendnet.com!jdshort (John & Diana Short) Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 10:13:51 -0800 Subject: driving schools Hi Gang, This has been my limited track experience. I've been to 4 track days at= Portland International Raceway. They do have a professional driving school= at the track (that uses MKII NAs) but what has been great in my opinion is= track days sponsored by the local sports car clubs. The generic sports car= clubs (which you don't have to be a member to participate!) offer= professional race drivers to ride with you for the first one or two of you= 4 or 5 30minute runs. The professionals are optional after that. Cost is= $95. Controlled passing was only allowed on longest straight and= cars/drivers were grouped as to ability. I have learned alot from the= professional drivers, and they differ on their methods (and results!) I've= also been to one Porsche club track day ($65) where it was a 5 or 6 hour= free for all. Interstingly, I would have expected to be outdone by many a= 911 but I was not passed once during the 4 roughly 30 minute runs I did. = Passing was basically uncontrolled and allowed on both long straights. It= seemed that the generic club's requirement of more time with an instructor= paid off as the students seemed more capable. Both situations came with= corner workers. Kip Anderson related that he has done something similar,= but the students doing the corner flags, at a cost of only $40 for 4 15= minute runs. All cases take the better part of a day for alternating= groups to go or corner workers to swap. An easy way to find these is just to call your local track (thats how I= found them, anyway) and ask for local car clubs that do track days. These= options are certainly a blast, cheap, and you'll learn alot. John =20 Happy Notes from the Short Family Frog Farm! ------------------------------ From: uunet!ukonline.co.uk!david.cole Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 19:52:15 GMT Subject: Re: #53 >The small 'silencer' just before the main end silencer (at the back of the >car) is NOT at cat. Remember that this is a UK spec. model. >I had a look at the mirco-fisch @ Toyota, and it just happens to be in the >same position as the US spec. with one cat fitted. >So, the problem that I have is connecting the very back silencer to the long >flow pipe. If you look on page 89 of the MK1 Owner's Manual, there's a >diagram of a Mk1 with 1 cat fitted at the back, on my car, that's a normal >silencer. So are you saying that I can order a MK1 silencer from a Toyota dealer in the U.K. and that it will be a bolt on replacement to the cat on my California spec MR2? sounds good, Ramzi, Sorry it's taken so long. If you buy a silencer from the UK, the part that I'm referring to includes the pipe from where it bolts onto the manifold, down to the small silencer. (Which in the US is a cat). (We can't buy the small can on it's own.) Then to that, you bolt-on your normal end-can silencer. Hope this helps. (check it out first though before you order one though!) As a matter of interest, what's the failure rate of cats in the US? Our motoring programme, Top Gear, mentioned some alarming figures last night. With cats failing on 3 year-old cars... not good news for people buying cat-fitted cars that are just coming up for their first MOT. (Road-worthy-test)... ____________________________________________________________ |Reply to: | | | |David Cole david.cole@ukonline.co.uk | |Satellite Times Fax: (0181) 677 8223 | |Radio & Listings Sub-Editor | |23 Mitcham Lane | |Streatham, SW16 6LQ | |____________________________________________________________| ------------------------------ From: "Mark A. Shehan" Date: 15 Dec 95 22:34:16 EST Subject: Driving schools in Atlanta or Charlotte Jim McKamey and Jean Kinser will be conducting one of their advanced McKamey Autocross Schools (advanced car handling in autocross situations) in Atlanta, Georgia on March 16th and 17th. You can contact Jim at 219-762-8184 (South Bend, Indiana) for more information. If you cannot make that date they offer other dates in different parts of the country. Their home base is at the Tire Rack test facility in South Bend, Indiana. I HIGHLY recommend the school. Mark Shehan '91 MR2 turbo t-top red 146 K miles Detroit Region SCCA Solo Director ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V1 #64